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I struggled with how to go with mine also as they were originally in a dark grey but in the end silver was where I went in matte finish:-
So glad I did now to.
It came it with a fuel smell complaint which I traced to a micro fracture in his solid fuel lines which was just misting out. Whilst changing that I caught the heater matrix pipes and because they're older than Jesus they just turned to dust (so I had to fix that to). Went out to get parts, came...
It'll either be down to a faulty position switch in the gearbox or the wiring is shorting out which is making the circuit complete/turning the lights on.
Mick
120A IIRC
Fused link isn't available on its own either im afraid. It comes as a part loom section that includes the main starter line and alternator feed... around £85 + VAT I seem to recall.
Mick
You have just become my new BFF... here's my sister, have a go on her!
But seriously, I've been trying to get in there for years to see that car as I've been told it's complete bar electronics and data acquisition.
Where/When did you get that? PM me please!
Mick
I also looked at the logistics of getting it back. Just that bit too far unfortunately plus I have no space/time/money for another race car project. It looked like a cracking shell though and very sad to hear she was scrapped.
Funny you say that... still not running lol
This weekend though she's having four actually new doors and I'm starting the rebuild of the bottom end. I'm actually mega excited (no seriously, I have such an errection just thinking about working on this car lolz)
The CAN network will function without it as posted above but it really needs balancing other wise it can cause generic "multiplex network" faults. Thats the role of that jumper.
Did an engine swap on a 172 with new clutch on Monday. Started at 9am... by 12.30 engine was on the floor, box off, new clutch fitted and it was in, fluids replaced and running again for 17.30
Admittedly swapping ancils and brackets does add loads of time though but compared to the Mk1's these...
There's two main earths that will need to be intact. The main one is in the passenger wheel arch area between the gearbox and the chassis. The second is the battey terminal which goes in to the main engine harness but also to the chassis behind the passenger headlamp.
If this has been damaged...
If the SRS light is illuminated when you turn the key and then goes out (and stays out) then no crash data has been stored and you're lucky. There may be something occuring with the electrical infastructure though after the crash.
Check all earth points are correct and intact. If the headlamp...
And then should you want something daft... I dunno like a new key from Renault because you break yours in the fuel cap... what then?
Key blades are ordered to VIN and by changing locks you shaft yourself. Also, its a pretty common failure to so why would you spend £100 on a secomd hand part...