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yates and bloomfield, manufacturers

very nice, would have been panicking if I'd have seen the pad on the rear bumper. thoughts on the DJ trim dressing?

with a decat it drones at around 2500 - 3200rpm, go above or below this and it's generally pretty civilised. the problems I found with fitment was that the hangers on the rear back boxes were not in the right place. is a simple fix, prop the rear back boxes up so the tail pipes line with the...

are you removing 1 or both? if taking both off then prop up the back box to take the load making it easier to remove. only taking one off should be fine. is literally a 2minutes job per mount

^ bit harsh mate

I have the C110, live in a low pressure and hard water area and is coping just fine for the past year / 18months

Re: What have you ordered? it's all sitting in the fridge waiting to be used, haven't even broken the seals to have a smell and feel

I'd throw autofinesse tough coat into the mix! it's a great spray sealant to rival the werkstat kit.

Re: What have you ordered? forgot about this thread. Since my last post.... EZ detail wheel brush pad spurring brush new wash mitt IronX and soap gel a load of ultra blue drying towels More AF citrus power and crystal and a Zymol sample kit of carbon, titanium, concoursea dn HD cleanse

because I'm not sanding down my carbon parts now, so therefore I did them in the past. I meant to say 'I wet sanded it down............ not that it makes any real difference? without seeing it in front of me, hard to say from just a pic. start with the least abrasive and if it's not removing...

you sure that's not lacquered? looks like it to me, thought even the matt carbon is lacquered? bet it's stone chips putting a hole / crack in the lacquer, moisture gets in between this and the carbon and lifts off. Had it happen to me on some cheap carbon parts I had on the front. I personally...

an update to your old thread would have been good with a photo! there is also IronX to try, but post a picture 1st please

not quite the same but eibach springs make 2 different sets, 1 for the 1.2, then another for the 1.4 / 1.6 & 2.0 1*2's so would not fit. Probably best to go on the apex site and check if the spring kits are compatible.

monthly wash yet he's bought a polisher!?!? lol I never took my Clio on track, yet I did my far share of track time. I worked my car hard and enjoyed every minute I had it on the right roads, took great pride in owning it so maintained it meticulously both mechanical and appearance. The day...

if you're talking about rejuvenate then yeah the MF applactor pads work best for me. I prefer to spray tough coat onto a foam applicator, a spray per panel or 2 for roof / bonnet, go round the whole care allowing it to haze after a few minutes and then buff off, it's just too easy

are you polishing by hand? lake country hand pads can be handy, they do an orange cutting, red polishing and white finishing. http://www.waxamomo.co.uk/ Or are you talking about polishing with the rejuvenate?

Tough coat is a great, easy to use sealant that I really like to use, I'd happily take it if werkstat was out of stock. Plus it works well with rejuv and finale. with regards to de-tarring and claying, once you get the hang of it it doesn't take long, and if the car has been protected properly...

as Gally says, there is so much more you can do to get a nice finish before investing in a machine polisher. by introducing more in depth de-contamination to you wash stage by tar and iron removers, claying etc will show a new side to your paint. Then there is cleansers / paint cleaners and...

I've been please with the majority of the AF range. gloss and finale are the only ones that haven't stood clear above the market, although finale is still good. rejuvenate and tripple are quite different both by hand and machine. both offer filling and minor correction but at different ends of...

using them by machine, is it a similar technique to using a cleanser?

:star:

quick step to wet sanding! I don't understand some people. enough money to run a Jaguar but too tight to look after it properly

I'd recommend getting the green hex pad also, use this more than any of my others and I have almost all of the hex range

however much i don't agree with billys' opinion, that's not of any help yellowbelly

JD, it so tempting to just pay the subscription for you to get you back on and posting, no brown nosing or rim wax intended

MrBilly, in all serious now, would you be happy using a heavy acidic wheel cleaner, forgetting what brand now, on a wheel that is not 100% perfect, ie any break in the paint finish exposing the bare alloy which lets face accounts for the majority of wheels, mine included? Because to me that...

if it's not coming off with bilberry, I moved onto IronX, for something like that try the gel

what are you using to wash them with at the moment?

I'm right, you're wrong. FLOL those that can't take critism shouldn't post on a public forum. And those that have not really tried other products aren't really in a position to give recommendations there your wheels so use what you like, but I would recommend using a known safe product than...

tar and iron removers after washing and before claying will speed up the process and remove a lot rubbish. for a beginner and time saving maybe look at the spray sealants instead of a wax. AF tough coat is a very simpe to use and good performing spray on sealant that looks lovely over...