Drivers side door won't lock..

[Toms_clio]

Hi having a problem with my drivers side door. WHen I lock the car the passenger side door and boot make the locking sound but the drivers side won't.. Also when I press the lock button from inside it still won't lock..
anyone got an idea what it could be?
It's being a pain as I park my car in a car park every day for work and anyone could just help there selves to my bits inside although the alarm does go off..

 

[MicKPM]

Right, lets try this again (Just lost my last attempt at replying to this)...

... It could be something as simple as a fuse, a broken wire or the actuator itself but it could also be the UCH at fault. There are some checks you can do yourself to rule some bits out so if you're handy with the tools and have a multi-meter to hand here goes:

• Firstly check all fuses are intact

• Secondly, door car off the offending door and using a multi-meter check for power and earth at the actuator when the door switch on the dash is actuated (You will know the power and earth as they're be the only two thick-ish wires on the actuator).

If you have power/earth (which will switch when the door is locked/unlocked) then the fault is with the actuator itself... replace it and job done! If however you get nothing then you will have to delve a little deeper and check for any signs of broken wiring to that circuit. The most common place for this kind of breakage occuring is in the flexi-section of the loom in the door hinge area. You will have to remove the outer rubber protection sleave but its easily done without damaging it providing you take you time.

If any wires are broken simply repair them with a good clean solder joint, heat shrink them and retry the switching test again. If it works that's job done and permission to feel manly is granted. If not there is proberbly a good chance that the fault is down to an internal fault on the UCH's PCB and you will need either a CLIP session to confirm or the skills of an auto-spark to find the faulty relay (Which is fixed to the PCB) and surgically de-solder it/replace it. Failing that, you could always buy a new UCH and have it coded/setup to your car.

We offer both services should you need it and a new N3 UCH is around £330-370 supplied, fitted and coded to your vehicle however we do need your vehicle and any keys you have for it to do this.

Mick

 

[Toms_clio]

Oh dear! I've already had 2 uch's on this car in 8 months !!! Better not be it again!!
will check all the above on my day off..
thanks

 

[MicKPM]

Brand new UCH's or your original UCH repaired by say BBAReman?

 

[Toms_clio]

Nah 2 new ones from Renault..

 

[MicKPM]

Fek, i'd be pissed then cos they're far from cheap and its got to be one of two things:

1 - The UCH isn't the actual problem and they should check further into the wiring.

2 - There is an issue with the car that is eating UCH's... normally water ingress due to blocked drains or a leak at "R67"

Is it always the one door that fails or have you had other issues?

Mick

 

[Toms_clio]

Last 2 it was to do with the immobliser.. My lock Droped working about 4 months ago but fixed its self :s. now it's not working again :/
could it be the door solenoid? Someone mentioned it last time ..

 

[MicKPM]

possibly the actuator yes but until you test it yourself you won't know.

 

[Toms_clio]

Ok I'll check that's first. The car lock fine now :s. so strange!!

 

[Struggler]

this same issue came with my 172 when i bought it,

cleaned the connector to the solenoid up a little and now it works fine!!

hopefully its the same for you dude!