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Re: scoping abs sebsors That's what I was hoping to hear. Normally (and for easier access) we'd scope at the ABS unit multiplug but that doesn't take into account possible faults due to continuity or corrosion problems between the box and each wheel sensor. By testing each sensor at its source...

There are a few possibles but ideally it needs a diagnostic session to put a proper finger on it. I'd guess at either a CTS, H02 or MAP fault.

Re: scoping abs sebsors Where did you take the reading from? It does sound like a duff sensor indeed and the GSF part will be fine. Mick

The brake pedal switches (depending on type fitted) performs two functions. The first is an "on/off" switch for the brake lamp circuit and the second is a fail safe kind of interrupt for the cruise control program. Because of the role it performs it's not a simple switch as it has the two...

Especially with a potential oil pump issue, it honestly wouldn't be worth the risk travelling to me.

Take it to a garage that has test equipment, specifically an oil pres tester . I would do it for you if you're close to Nottingham. Mick Edit - you also need to know the specs

Not exactly no. What you're looking for is a nice, progressive curve as the rotation speed increases and decreases. No output will be either a sensor or wiring fault but chance are the sensor is producing a smooth-ish wave form that has some errors at slow speeds so it'll be a target fault...

I'd personally want to measure the physical oil pressure before and after the oil and filter change also to be sure it's not a pump/sensor problem. Mick

It really does need a CLIP session mate to check this. I agree, it may need a new TB unit BUT it may also be a wiring issue and the TB is simply not working because the voltage signal isn't quite right. I'm not trying to scare money out of you but rather encourage you to get an accurate picture...

Live data and graph the data output to see what track A and B are doing in relation to one another when the pedal is applied.

That's a throttle position fault then

Nottingham... It says in the location part of my profile/avatar section ;) Mick

Check the wiring loom in the door and confirm/deny power and function signals

I'd say try a different scanner. I've seen the transmission temp fault before from some generic bits of kit and it can be ignored (unless you have an auto). Mick

Everything else working okay? CTS, Map, injectors

It's entirely probable that you've busted the TB as you should never, EVER attempt to manually actuate the throttle plate whilst it is connected to the loom let alone force it. With it off the car you should find it moves freely and with ease. If not it needs replacing. Mick

You can't as it's ECM controlled. How low is it... What's the actual reading?

Bring it in, i'll take a look and sort it for you. Mick

Does Paul do that kind of work? We're in Nottingham if you fancy a trip? Cost is £580 for the belt change with dephaser and I'm sure we can accommodate a water pump change for a bit more to. Mick

CLIP is Renault specific and tells you so much more than a generic reader will. Also, code reading the ECM may not show any codes as the problem may lay elsewhere in one of the many other systems. Mick

Dismantling the clock set isn't hard but you need to exercise a little caution as the needles will need removing so you have to put them to the rest position and mark there relation/point before taking it off the spindle (don't do this and you'll never get a decent speedo reading again). In all...

Chances are the tensioner is seized up and with a worn belt is prpb why it's squeeking so will need changing anyway. You can try removing it all and bathing it in WD40 but you have done the hard part by removing it so why refit a worn/old part that the manual clearly tells you to bin/replace...

As above, Danny's advice is sound - get the CAT nice and hot by giving it a "spirited" run or by holding it at 3k for 30secs to a minute before putting the probe up its chuff again which really the MOT station should have tried but some are more interested in getting you on/off the test bay ASAP...

That clicking is normal when there's an issue. You really need it plugging in I'm afraid Mick

Resetdrives ash and trips then go for a drive. If you don't know how to do this have a quick search because it's been covered loads of times. Mick

So the buttons operation/status can clearly be seen as functioning on CLIP? Want to bring it in? (joke) check the link above and run the dash bulb test to see if the light comes on. Mick

No, the EML wont be on but the SRS and ABS/ESP and SERV lights will. You need to have the car re-configured on CLIP ideally or try the resistor method and have some switches wired in for the cruise. Mick

You're not going to be the only one shortly mate as the new MOT rules regarding the operation of all warning lights are in as of May 1st! Chances are you're right in your assumption and the previous owner is trying to hide something. You can either remove the clock set and replace it with a...

My good friend Dunc has a MINT standard set with amazing Michelin rubber on. He's after £450. PM me if you're interested and I'll send you his contact details Mick

Yep, one of a few common causes of the 30A blowing that is. Glad you sorted it though. Mick