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Look for breaks in the wiring, specifically in the loom sections near the ECU as the CanBus twisted pair are prone to brekaing in this area. A decent diagnostic session will help though as it narrows down what to look for. If you have access to CLIP Diagnostics that gives an even better idea as...

Most likely a short to + blowing the fuse. Look for damaged wiring Mick

That's really smart that and if he's happy who cares what it cost... You just see them anymore so when you do and they're like that it's a treat.

How old is it? Possibly just the battery is all cycled out and it needs a new one.

Halfords sell them to... £11.99 iirc

Set fire to it (the body kit, not the car... You already did that) Told yer it would run ;)

Tell your mate it's not as simple as that. What is going to work out the number of pulses per rotation and the frequency which in turn dictates the speed signal output? You need to do one of two things mate: 1 - replace the gearbox with one that will accept a sensor. 2 - live without a speedo...

s**t mate, that was a close one! On the plus side I'm sure you've fixed the problem now. Mick

It's normally the thicker red wires in the engine bay fuse box area that break. The early Clio II's had problems with water ingress due to rain water running down the inner passenger wing and in to the fuse box. This buggered the connections as well as caused broken wires in later years. Take...

I had an Omega 3.0 Elite in Tourer form and it was simply brilliant which, unfortunately, isn't something I can say about the other Vauxhalls I've owned in the past. I wanted the MV6 for the manual box but in reality the auto box is far better suited. I've already had 2 of the 3 cars that are...

The reason for why the LED is constantly on has been covered a fair few times now but chances are your car is not starting because there's a broken wire in the engine loom. Mick

An oil pres switch will not stop the engine starting no. I'm willing to go on a limb and say the LED will be on solid and not going out.

That's a problem then... Check the fuses in the engine bay first of all and trace the wires back as they are known for breaking, especially when the vehicles have been laid up. Mick

The engine won't physically "turn over" or just simply won't "start"? Only asking so we are clear as you've had an oil pressure warning light on and continued to drive the vehicle.

I've not got access to any of my docs till Monday but I'm sure DF014 relates to a wiring fault between the MTU/UCH and the ECM specifically for transmitting the imob auth code. If the main body control is receiving the key code fine then the dash will indicate no fault and neither will the...

Earthing is the most likely cause and fairly simple to check with a multi-meter so if you don't already have one, buy one ;) Mick

The light staying on solid is saying the immobiliser has been disarmed but there is a wiring fault which is stopping an important item from reporting in and so starting the car is prohibited. Chances are the UCH itself is fine. Mick

£380 here not £500

Good result then mate... Bloody horrible things those subframe bolts.

I find it's always the O/S rear captive bolt that spins and thankfully a midget length ring spanner just fits in the stupid gap. If you don't have one equip a grinder with a cutting disc and fetch the head off the bolt to allow you to fully drop the subframe. You can then get the remains of the...

You need the pump off now to take it to a Bosch service center... They *may* have spares but if not its deffo gonna need a replacement pump.

Oh dear, that's nots good as I believe that is part of the fuel pump itself!

Timing belt kit differs due to changes in the idler setup.

It's a fairly deep thread though so its got a good grip on the splined section to spread the load over. Other things can come in to play which should also be considered such as heat transfer/thermal bridging leading to premature failure of the material BUT it would have to be a fair bit of heat...

What do you mean the cam setting bar isn't for locking them? Edit: check out the tensioner mark to... Looks miles wrong if my eyes aren't deceiving me.

Not really Renaults fault as they dont make the shafts or any of the castings so prob one of those things. Looks like a stress related failure though and who's to say it hasn't been grossly over-tightened at some point in its history? Just be thankfull it didn't happen at speed.

Check the fuse box in the passenger side of the dash... The legend will show you which fuse is for the UCH. The wires you need to check vary depending on the actual fault so re-read what Mike wrote earlier in the thread and go from there. Mick

They are supposed to add strength and ridigity (is that an actual word?) to a shell by bracing the strut tops. On some cars it works but not the Clio-Yo's

Because race car?

If you're worried have it plugged in to see what caused it.