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£230 with a water pump and stat if you fancy a short drive to Nottingham. Mick

No, it means there's most likely another problem somewhere on the brake pedal switch circuit and it needs proper diagnosis. Just because the code says there's a problem with the Switch doesn't always mean it is the actual switch causing the problem.

Mint, we'll sort it for you.

The ODBII port is also CAN mate and has CAN H and CAN L lines alongside the diagnosis lines. The protocol changes depending on age but most were KWP2000 iirc. This is why the non-CAN generic readers from Ebay no longer work as the CAN network links all the systems. Glad you sorted it though and...

Bring it to Nottingham and I'll do it... I'm not travelling that far. Mick

5l will be fine

It's all CAN mate, has been since 2001ish

Self fixing cars? That's not gonna be good for business! No, the one under the cup holder is the SRS module but yes, you should pull the topdash off again and inspect the clockset wiring for anything obviously wrong especially as it was all fine before hand. The rev counter and level guages...

They all sound like that mate, its a 1.2 thing and they tap like mad. Depending on the age you may simply need to get the tappets adjusted and that will quieten things down alot but in general those 1.2's go FOREVER as long as they have belts fluids and filters changed on time. Mick

You're gonna be guessing forever mate unless you can spot something obvious thats broken or not plugged in. Diagnostics should be the next step mate.

Its not a common problem no and an earth is a good guess but the clockset and mono-lever are seperate ciruits with a common link... the UCH! Has anything else been done recently? Mick

You've made the rookie mistake of going straight at it with a pair of pliars without appreciating how the wiring loom connects the various systems. In doing so you will have removed a vital link which is now prohibiting the car from starting (or even turning over I guess)... Wiring diagrams...

Yes, a new unit is required OR take that one to pieces and check the contact switch isn't stuck down.

Yeah, don't use the F7R ffs or else you'll have massive problems!

At least you read the instructions. Normally people put those things straight on a tyre with 2.4bar in it and wonders why fluid leaks everywhere!

1l should be enough but I'd say 1.5-2l to be sure if you're doing the one man pedal method.

Not the end of the world if the engine was fully drained down but a 10w/40 is a semi-synthetic oil and the F4R prefers a fully synthetic hence why a 5w/40 is specified... But that's mainly for service life. The 1.2 16v uses either a 10w40 semi or 5w/40 fully synthetic so the mix up may have been...

1.2 16v - I'd guess it will be either the water pump or the thermostat housing but these are just guesses based on common causes on the D4F and would need to see to say for sure. I'm in Nottingham if you need it looking at so drop me a line if you need help. Mick

Firstly I'd learn to use a multi-meter properly as believe it or not most people don't know how to use the basics a DMM comes with. Then I'd be looking for back feeding earth's, shorts to gnd/+ and then make sure all the fuses are intact and are at the correct rating for the circuit. Not...

It's not a simple job from memory to get the Switch out but there's a guide knocking about I'm sure.

That's not strange to hear at all mate and most likely because the equipment they used was not capable of interfacing with all of the Clios systems (or anything that isn't mode7 compliant). More for your info really: http://www.diamondmotors.net/diamond-motors-welcome/diagnostics What you need...

Ive not looked at the schematic for a UCH controlled signal circuit in a long time and I'm at home now so no access to Visiu but I'm sure it'll be the hazard switch that is the fault. If it's not then it'll most likely be the UCH itself which isn't cheap.

Did you check the live data to see what, if anything, the SAS was reporting? Codes aren't always black and white and it could be a connection fault rather than the sensor itself. Mick

Do the sides work okay independently? If so it could be the Switch, a wiring fault or the UCH itself. Pop it if if you need someone to take a look. Mick

Exactly that matey, they're ridiculously s**t!

Sounds like two issues here both of which have been covered before. Firstly, I'd guess it needs the brake pedal switch resetting and secondly, it'll need looking at to confirm, but most likely a poor connection on the charge circuit or the battery is on its last legs. Mick

It'll no doubt be the clock itself... I bet a second hand unit fixes it.

I'm sure Max Power did a modding Haynes manual that shows how to fit the solenoid and most importantly how to wire it up correctly. They can be had from Ebay for £5 or less. If you're unsure how to wire a simple circuit like this though I'd recommend you don't attempt it as vehicle fires start...

You don't have to drop the box oil just to change the sensor... You just need fast hands and you'll lose about 50ml of box oil. If you jack it up enough on the passenger side you won't lose any. Health and safety notice: Do not attempt this work shortly after driving the car for hours. Gearbox...

As per Lemonnobby's post above, it will most likely be down to either the upper rear lateral tie bar or the main gearbox rear mount. They look fine but are made from cheese and only seem to knock from true cold start and even then only for a few minutes. Either live with it or replace it...