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Yell.com <------ its fantastic!

Yep, injector seal isn't fitted correctly. Remove, re-seat it and try again.

In this case he's wrong, it doesn't need this however the Sirus32/34 ECM's do have adaptives which when reinitialised can and do make the car drive a bit better.

The "Stop Leak" isn't a bodge like K-seal as it doesn't clog up your coolant pipes and gallery's. It stays liquid and reacts to air but it is only to be considered a temporary solution to a problem. Really you should replace the radiator and thoroughly flush the coolant system afterwards.

From new? Doubtfull - Get it checked mate cos hesitation, poor running and general lack of go at cold isn't right.

A beep code is a series of beeps which, depending on what you hear, gives you an idea of what is wrong.

Alarm wise you need to read the manual mate... it will give you a "beep" code when you dissarm it that will help you find out what is triggering it. Mick

WTF did he use to data log that an old green screen Amstrad or Acorn Electron!?! LoLz at the HiTech print out... Me thinks he needs a new printer. Takes me back to the early 90's that. As above, they all say theirs is the best, most accurate dyno in the world but in truth non of them are and...

What car? What problems? The UCH performs many functions so you need to give us as much information as possible if you want some sort of help. Mick

You will have a couple of problems here: Firstly the TC and SERV light will be a fault somewhere on the ABS system so you will need to connect to that, not the ECM, to diagnose this fault. Secondly what were the actual fault codes/description and did you replace the flywheel sensor with a...

That's an amazing website to... Bookmark it people!

Danny, do you still have that TB?

It shouldn't no as the stat is a regulator of coolant temp and at cold it won't make a difference. Diagnostics and a peek at the live data should answer this one. Mick

That's not gonna help matters as the ecu needs the speed input. Replace the gearbox sensor with a new one from Renault... They're not mega expensive and fairly easy to change. Mick

Has any work been done on the brake circuit recently? What's the fluid level like? I've seen this message appear on the Clio III several times and in all cases its been because an air bubble has hit the ABS module and whilst it doesn't stop the ABS or conventional brakes working its bloody...

It needs a service... TB is most likely badly fouled and needs cleaning. Mick

Believe it or not it is not normal! It is most likely a fault with the H02 heater element or the CTS but really a diagnostic session would confirm/deny it. Mick

Are you sure it's the airbag that's causing the MIL?

Proberbly because there's been a serious fault raised and even though the sensor is working again the code still remains. The car wants checking over to be sure everything is right.

The second hand key is 100% useless mate and as above you need a 'virgin' fob. The fobs are around £63.00 +vat then you'll need a key blade to which are £13 +vat. Finally it will need programming to the vehicle which will cost £45 Mick

Yep, it'll happen again. I'd do the clutch pedal also as the rachet mech/cable guide will be worn to. Mick

Gearbox to chassis is a common point on all Renault. There's also one on the front of the block, dead center... It's the main engine loom earth. Could also be a poor battery to chassis ground but without being there and testing each earth I couldn't say for sure.

Are the plugs actually being burnt? Pics please.

Engine noise will change and it will be very tappy but there's no law that says a broken drive chain will make a rattle or a bang. Firstly confirm you have oil in the engine. Secondly, have a mechanical oil pressure test done to rule out a pump vs sensor fault. My money is on either the sensor...

I don't have access to any of my literature right now as I try not to live at work. It depends on the colour of the sensor but again, i believe its around 0.5Bar on the F4R

They fit ;) Mick

Book figure is 3Bar@3k rpm with the oil temp at 80 deg C iirc so a cold start you'd expect it to be higher until the oil warms/thins.

Yep cylinder head off, drop oil and sump then swap the dead piston out with the block in place... Easy job.

Cracked target ring on the driveshaft... Seen it loads of times before and on the 1.2 16v normally.

Why don't you try calling Renault Leicester to see what offers they have on? Failing that, take it somewhere else.