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Moderator will be along shortly to move it buddy, don't panick ;)

Because race car?

Mark, you failed to check the assemby opperation before full reassembly and road test... but at least you checked afterwards as most wouldn't. Chances are the pads aren't sat correctly OR you've managed to fudge up the re-assembly process on that wheel (Maybe even fitted the wrong pad type?)...

Firstly, you need to post this in the right section matey... it will recieve a much better responce in there (MODS) Secondly you need to establish why your battery either is or appears to be going flat. Is it the batery itself, a poor earth or a naughty component staying live? This time of year...

Yes but an "SMD" can be many things... Capacitors, Resistors or any other component that can be mounted to a PCB are classed as SMD's but in this case, the SRS LED its a SMD LED or Surface Mounted Diode which is a specific type of small form, ultra bright LED.

Got mates from the area, the name just stuck... kinda like Doncatraz

If the coilpack doesn't fix it mate pop her down and i'll kick its ass in to working for you... i'm off J25 of the M1 so not a million miles away from "The Field" Mick

I don't mind the software TBH but I guess its what you're used to - I hear waht you're saying about the live mapping, or lack of, Danny. For people that can map it must be frustrating to have to stop and commit the changes before being able to carry on but its not an issue to me as I'm not a...

Yep, Dave and Karl are still about doing their thing.

It's a common fault mate... worst case, you'll need a new switch but normally a reset will suffice.

Dash lights need to work for MOT purposes from January 2012... desolder or tape over at your own risk.

So you're saying that isn't the work of Renault? LoL - Who the fek did that?

Kind of correct except the "Deployment" code cannot be removed (By CLIP anyway). There are places that can do it online though. You will need to replace the seat airbag unit, covering and proberbly the pre-tensioner for that seat also... possibly even the side impact sensor. Mick

Yes please!

Keycards + Fat arses = FAIL I had my Laguna II card run over by a 3.5T Ford Iveco and it survived all be it a bit battered but still, very impressed when it actually unlocked my old GT.

Right, I would recomend that you take the car somewhere to get it looked at properly. I mean somewhere that is going to do more than "Code Read" as this will end up being something very silly causing the problem but it'll be a complete t**t to find! I've seen coilpacks do this kind of thing but...

They're made for people who "Go to tool box 'A' and remove tool 'MOT3478' and turn bolt 'C' to 45.37 degrees"

Where do you live?

100% DIS Ignition and no chance distributor then as above... where's the car based? I'm betting on a wiring issue in the short loom myself

Good on yer for fixing it but I'd guess at around £800-1k at least to fix properly unless you manage to get lucky with some parts from a breaking car in your colour.

Correct, its the flare itself that creates the actual leak-proof seal and the threads merely add the load to keep them in place. Standard lines are a steel construction and tend to last forever unless there are any obvious signs of damge such as flat spots or hammer marks. More stupid questions...

I don't believe i've ever seen a D4F with a distributor based ignition setup... what is the cars details; year, engine size, etc? Mick

Mate you were SO lucky there! Looks like the light area was the source of that fire to me though. If it were the fuel line the engine itslef would be blackened/burnt. Front end stuff isn't cheap but is easy enough to change and thankfully, the wiring looms you need will plug and play from a...

Are the union/calliper threads damaged? Are the fixings properly tight? Are the lines "factory" made or "hand" made on your driveway as the flairs may be the issue if you've made them. Mick

You will be able to get those kind of things but from the various manufacturers as Renault don't make them, they buy in. Injectors are Bosch, Clutch will be sold under on of the many guises of AP or Federal Mogul. Bosch's website does have a good listing section based on part numbers that shows...

If they cannot establish a connection with the SRS then the system itself is in fault but if he can then go with a wiring fault at the clockset or the SMD for the SRS lamp being tampered with. The clockset won't cost much to fix, just the cost of the SMD and a beer... probebrly cost more to send...

My bad, yes, I meant SRS not ABS. Anywhere with semi-decent diagnostics of the Snap-On variety will be able to reliably tell you wants wrong with the SRS. Easiest way to resolve the clockset SMD issue is to post it to me and I'll fit you a new one OR replace the clockset and re-run the bulb test.

Oh and SMD is a Surface Mounted Diode... Small, bright LED

They're SMD's not bulbs and rarely blow! Could be a broken wire or poor connection at the clockset I guess as the lights are triggered by +12v down each line via the UCH. Bulb test was step 1 and I'm afraid step 2 is diagnostics to try and establish a connection to the ABS module and see what's...

Right, they've destroyed the SMD then and a new unit is required. Then diagnostics to find and eventually fix the issue I'm afraid. Fooking pikeys - personally I hate this!