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Can't really say how difficult it would be to fix without seeing the vehicle. Deffo sounds like at least the ECM has been decoded to allow it it run the car and technically your insurance is void IF the car is stolen as the factory security isn't working.
Probably not worth the cost if i'm...
Agreed, the lack of decent apps for the QNX platform as a whole is a serious problem for RIM but that should change from Feb'12 when we get an update that puts a new Android Marketplace icon on our desktops and the ability to run them (properly - some *claim* native mail, calendar and unique pin...
I'm pretty impressed with how well my better halfs 1.2TCe goes tbh... bargain at £6700 to for a '10 plate. The '172 is getting on a bit now so why not get a '197 instead... far nicer car to be inside IMO and are coming for good money these days.
Mick
Could indeed be a faulty CTS yes but check one of the wires hasn't snapped or that its not just been unplugged by some pikey in the past. Renault will supply you a new one as the D4F uses a different type to the F4R.
Mick
It could be anything... rain/light sensor, door switch, reel sensor or just an electrical connection having a bad week. Needs CLIP time to say i'm afraid as i doubt a generic P code would have been flagged.
Mick
You sir have bought what we call a lemon!
Okay, not exactly a lemon but the light is flashing fast to say the key being used is not authorised to start the car as the code hasn't been recognised. This means either an elaborate wiring bypass has been done to remove starter and main power control...
It protects the gearbox oil seal from FOD entering or building up around the seal and damaging it... part is not available on its own i'm afraid and only comes as part of the driveshaft assembly.
What is the problem with yours, can't you knock it back on?
Mick
Any leak will upset the post-cat sensor reading as more oxygen enters the system so leaks should be stopped first. After that, pull the sensor and give it a good clean with something like brake cleaner (no, WD40 is not the same and shouldn't be used).
Take it for a good run at motorway speeds...
AST/Snap-on do a tool thats simple and effective but unless you're doing them all the time its not gonna be worth the cost. Why don't you just pay someone to do it for you and save the hassle?
Mick
Coil is the most likely cause BUT as Jonny pointed out above it could be anything and really you need a proper diagnostic session to say for sure as guessing can get pricey and on items like coil packs you won't get your money back if you buy it, use it and find it doesn't fix it... electrical...
The alarm, IF its a dealer fit item, will be there purely to get the vehicles security to Thatcham catergory 1 so will have nothing to do with the key or its code... its a noise maker and nothing more.
This has been covered (to death) before but i'll repeat it again for you. Firstly, confirm...
any decent generic kit will do that is intended for professional use as there may not actually be a fault code stored (Launch, Snap-On, Bosch, Delphi). Ultimately non of these will be able to tell you the various engine status levels (not that you will proberbly need this info for this kind of...
Without seeing it? I know its the most wonderfull time of the year and a time of magic for children but i'm afraid i cannot diagnose that fault without seeing the car. Could be an earth, wiring, a component or the UCH.
Mick
So you put a new engine in to your car and never once checked the oil? I think a new dephaser is the least of your problems mate and really it needs a proper looking at to see what has happened and to say if it's salvageable. At the very least you need the spark plugs out and see if you can turn...
Have you honestly used anything else properly or are you just the biggest fanboy with blinkers on to the rest of the world? I've got and cannot fault the BB Playbook and the QNX OS is possibly the best tablet OS out... i'd honestly say its better than Apples offering but thats because i'm used...