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Renault... for MOT? :s

Interesting - Pretty easy to check for to if its the case... 10mins so give it a look.

Mechanical condition or a poorly seating valve... but thats extreme worst case lol

It really needs a proper CLIP session not a "code reading" session as Live data will help to pinpoint this however it 100% wont be reluctor ring/target related. You need to understand how the ABS system works and there are serval versions depending on age and equipment deployed in the vehicle -...

truth is it could potentially be many things... diagnostics you tight bunch ;)

Yeah www.diamondmotors.co.uk - We're at junction 25 of the M1 so not very far at all. Mick

Sounds like an ABS module fault... do get it looked at pretty soon. Mick

Wired or WiFi connection?

Could be ignition or injection related. I'd start by disconnecting the injector multiplug and making sure the connections are nice and tight in the plug itself. Then, if that doesn't sort it check the lead on Cyl #2 for signs of being trapped... maybe just replace it. Mick

I've seen this a few times to but agree, very lucky owner.

I'd offer mate, you know i would but you're just too far to be viable. Mick

That'll be why the code makes no sense then buddy. I was half expecting you to say it was an old Snap-On bit of kit but the Bosch units use there own code system to so you will need to either use the kit again for an accurate translation or get it redone on a proper bit of kit rather than an...

That code means nothing to me so i'd need to know what was used to get it from your vehicle. The only solenoid valve i can think it refers to is the EVAP solenoid valve. Mick

Really? LoL

Chances are you have a wiring issue - Starting to become common now as these cars get older. Bring it in if you need help fixing. Mick

Bring it over to me and i'll give you the Racing Blue discount... best colour EVER!

Good old Mk1's... those bolts are buggers for claiming tools like that. This is why we buy Snap-On as the warranty replaces them when it happens. Mick

I'm also not that far from MK either and can be found just off J25 of the M1 Mick

I'd say it needs a major service then - Brake fluid, Coolant, stat, etc

Ah right i didn't know that. The cheap version is what they call the Alliance CLIP and its a barebones VCI with a cheap laptop and non of the SRS or Gas testing extras though i'm keeping an eye on Renault as next year (i think) there new CLIP replacement is being deployed.

They are what are called "clones" and use them at your own peril! A garage up the road from me had a cloned "Star" which is the dealer level Mercedes tool. They used it on a customers vehicle to diagnose a fault and un-beknown to them right away it had told the body control module that it had...

Not the K4J 1.4 16v you can't as its the same as the 1.6 16v K4M... keyless engine and the top cover forms the carrier bearing caps for the cams.

As Danny said its more than likely going to be the rocker cover which is leaking and mis-diagnosed and needing a re-seal. Whilst you're having it done (properly at least) you might as well treat it to a timing belt, aux. belt and (service history and condition depending) water pump change...

I *believe* what the OP is attempting to say is the car uses fuel and has a warm idle speed of around 1050rpm rather than 800rpm. There could be a number of things causing the problems you are having. Start simple with the coolant temp sensor and its associated wiring. Then move on to the...

Not true, Gloebaid currently sell a CLIP for around £1900 which is software locked and has no support package. The RS Tuner is pretty good for what you'll want, need or use it for though. Mick

Pretty much every Clio II i see has a decoder/ring connection fault present but it doesnt mean a thing. How the hell did they manage to re-code a single key to as that would automatically wipe the second key? I think they *may* be making that up! If the starter isn't functioning the first place...

Which is why Thermoplungers were deployed but even still... takes way too long to get warm air from a tractor engine.

Chances are it will be a brake pedal coherance/pressure related fault. There is a guide on here to help you reset it. Mick

Re: Horn not working!!!!!!!! Firstly, check ALL fuses. Then check the horn has a good earth and is getting +12v when you press the button. No voltage = fault in steering wheel clockring, button or fuse. Voltage but no noise = dead sounder. Mick

I would cos imo they've done bugger all today and i hope you didn't pay anything.