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take the aux belt off and briefly run the car... does the noise go?

you did plug the tb in again didnt you?

Like the F4R though the K4M/J units will happily run with minor inaccuracies with there timing but they don't run at optimum. My Scenic had ”had its belt changed“ and i was always curious why it seemed to pickup idles revs pretty slow and at 70mph, when you put your foot down, you got nothing...

Okay, to ask a silly question... ... what was it doing to warrant removal of the throttle body? The symptoms your video show bring me to the following conclusion; Timing slipped or foreign object damage obstructing valve/piston clearance. Bill shouldn't be massive even if worst case you've...

Thats the primary CAN-Bus twisted pair though i've never seen these break (here at least Mike). I tend to find they get stretched just before the main multiplug or the pins go cruddy at R65/R107. If you have a multimeter handy, a quick way to test them would be to run a continuity test down the...

You wouldn't believe how many mobile guys don't have tools to remove plugs on these engines mate... seriously small units. Did you do anything else at all? Whatever you do, stop turning it over by key! Damage (if any) has been done now but lets limit any further, expensive jobs being created. Mick

it would need to be a fair bit to hydrolock a 1.2 16v though matey. Are you sure you only removed the inlet and that nothing entered the ports when you had the plastics off?

I seriously doubt it will need a new ecu and no, the em light is not the red led... its the amber engine management light and looks like an engine shape. By all means bring it in... i promise you, it'll drive out and won't cost anywhere near £700! Mick

You dont have to go to those extremes. A diagnostic on CLIP is the best place to start as it will run a multiplex network test. This alone will help narrow down what/where the problem actually lays be it a connection or simple lack of power to a controller. Does the EM light come on and go off...

They're saying that because they don't know how to correctly diagnose the system starting with the very obvious red led that clearly states, according to the UCH fault finding manual, that its not the vehicle security prohibiting the vehicle from starting. In the end it will be something very...

Don, Can you turn it by hand? I'm guessing you won't be able to but am trying to be optermistic. Mick

No, its 100% not an imobilliser fault! The light going solid red and remaining lit is the car saying the key has been recognised and accepted however there is a connection or power problem on one of the many systems and that rules out a key, code, decoder ring or UCH fault. I see this so many...

You think a Clio is bad? Try a Laguna II OSF bulb... PAS reservoir and pipework is about an inch from the rear of the light unit.

Key not being recognised but is it the key or a decoder fault? Have you got a spare key to try?

possibly the clockring gone but again, theres loads of components that make up the SRS system and it could be any one.

Could be the seat connections as they are common but it could also be many other things. For what its worth check the seating harness but these cars are getting on a bit now and its just as likely to be the steering wheel clockring or a lateral crash sensor at fault and to correctly diagnose the...

then you've not done it right and the pins have a poor contact still.

clean the earth in the light unit multiplugs then replace... simples!

coilpack most likely to be the cause. really needs diagnostics though to say for sure mick

could be either mate... time for a good service. Mick

Got it mate and replied. I've also ordered the 2l of petrol and a case of beer for the fix ;)

the coil pack is arching out or the leads - where are the archs coming from as that will be what you need to replace.

its a UCH option. Solution: Stop driving it that hard

So it is a manual then? This is the problem with generic equipment, they sometimes give rogue codes.

I wasn't sure if it was the 1.4 8v or the 1.8 8v... ... the Mk1's are a bit of a bugger for heater matrix blockages. Next time its running see if one or both of the matrix pipes get hot as this will rule out a blockage. Could also be the start of an HGF but its not a bad fix on these lumps and...

you've busted your box mate... could be the bolts that hold the diff in or something else. Bring it in; I do full warranted rebuilds for £380 or if you cant get the box out email me via my website and i'll give you a price to remove, rebuild and replace it. Mick

This is on a Mk1 yes... which engine?

Ideally needs plugging in but if i had to guess I'd go with Crank Pos. Sensor if its a hot start issue but cold is fine.

... and that App works with ABS and systems other than ECM does it?

Fairly common for them to break in the 90deg return to the ECM. Mick