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It could even be a faulty temp sender or wiring issue. I had an F4R Scenic do something similar and everyone was convinced it was HGF but in the end it was a poor earth in the main loom. Trouble is these faults take time and a keen eye to fix which isnt something i could honestly advise you on...

I'm in Nottingham just off j25 of the M1. Address details are on my website: www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

nope, 3x13mm bolts - just be sure to drain the box BEFORE you pop the endcap off or else you wont be popular with whoevers driveway youre working on. Mick

End case off... bet the nut has fallen off or is mega loose.

yep, as above.... unplug it all from the fuse box, disconnect the ecm and out from above.

pure p**n this car... so much want!

After seeing the video i think it may be a TB fault or possibly an Ho2 issue. It may even be something simple like its gunked up in nasty breather oil crud and it needs de-greasing. Difficult to prove without seeing (obviously) but its as if the TB is struggling to keep the idle condition. If...

If the stat had gone the top hose would start to get warm straight away (eventually getting hot). You've most likely got a blockage, duff water pump or a system leak (eg, faulty cap, water pump or even head gasket).

I dont keep them in stock i'm afraid as there's a few too many variants and tbh i don't oftern need to replace them as they can be fixed

im out in Wales atm so will have a good read later for you.

Not got any diGrams myself i'm afraid but the camshaft seals (timing end) are the same outside diameter but the internal diameters differ; smaller ID is the exhaust cam, larger ID is the inlet/dephaser cam. Clutch end seals are simple as there are two obvious sizes. Dephaser solenoid seal is...

You've either not plugged a sensor(s) back in or you've damaged something. Another possible problem is you've fitted rear discs with the wrong reluctor rings on them (if the discs you bought even had them?). If you're 110% sure its all right tben you need diagnostics. Mick

There should be no need to touch the subframe buddy - just unbolt the manifold from the back of the cylinder head and leave it till the engine is clear of the bay.

if the system has run low yes, air can get in. Bleed by firstly opening the bleeder on the stat house yes till you get air free coolant flowing then close it. Then move to the heater matrix pipe which should also have a bleed point on it. Mick

Yep the engine and gearbox will come out as a single assembly without issue - just lift it at an angle so the gearbox comes out last.

sounds like either an air lock or a faulty coolant system not holding pressure. Start by bleeding it when its properly stone cold bud Mick

It wont have an IACV mate but it will most likely be down to a fouled up throttle body. Remove it and give it a bloody good clean and de-grease and it should be fine mate... shiny clean! Mick

When removing an engine from a FF 172/182 I normally drop these and the AC compressor from the block as it does make life easier lifting the engine clear of the bay but it also means you dont have to drop the gas and fluids. It does add time to the job though but not much.

New sender in the box will cure it. They're about £28 + vat and an easy fit

The rotary coupler isn't necessarily broken but the wheel will have to come off before i can CLIP it but thats included in the hours labour. My postcode is NG10 3FZ... full address details are on my website: www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

Needs calibrating on a CLIP - This is a dealer only or CLIP equiped specialist job i'm afraid. I do it for £35 Mick

I normally remove the AC and PAS pumps from the engine and lift it out around the pump units. Saves losing system integrity and is pretty easy to do. Got one in the workshop like this now pending a new diff going in the box tomorrow. M ick

I've never changed one on a Clio II but i believe they can be done without having to fully remove the dash. Do you actually need it changing - is it blocked or leaking? Mick

Behind the dash, dead central inside that massive black plastic box you can see from the footwells. Enjoy changing that, theyre fun (not as much fun as the Laguna II but still enjoy).

Was Stevie Wonder your Tech cos that should've had a line thru it... lol

It would be oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, general condition check, CLIP and the service reminder and record will be updated/stamped then you're done.... £90 using genuine filters and ELF oil. Mick

I think they had a consultant in from Rover at the time who encouraged using anything they had laying around at the time.

They firstly need to service the inlet track and then see what's causing the non-start issue. Crank position sensor is a safe bet. Mick

The brakes should be razor sharp... its a French thing to over-servo them so if they're that bad you need it looking at properly and swift. Get whoever looks the car over to look at the rest of the snag list to. Mick

Back to the dealers... if it wasn't doing it before.