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Bar the blue plastics (why Renault, WTF were you thinking)

Sorry but what diagnostic kit was used to get that code as "3503" is non-generic nor is it a Renault specific code (Sounds like a silly Bosch code to me for which I have no lookup data) What symptoms, if any, have you had other than the what you call "Limp Mode" which I assume is poor...

@ Rob - I like the cut of your jib with the flamethrowers idea! @ Sparky - Very easy to do this but you need a 5 pin 12v relay rather than a 4 pin unit that is rated accordingly for the circuit you want it to switch (Though most are either 20A or 40A and are capable of switching most general...

Obviously its not a complete doom and gloom situation but I wouldn't be quite so trusting as the noise is there because something isn't 100% right. If that A/C Compressor goes due to some unforseen 'issue' chances are the aux belt goes with it... which can (and does) slip the crank sprocket...

I don't think its a bad looking example myself and worth a circa £1k bid IMO but has it got any history, especially of timing belt changes? Use the box status and lack of belt history against him and don't be afraid of hurting his feelings as they're not cheap and essential on these cars.

You remove the lifting eye from the front right of the head then screw the horse-shoe to the head ;) Also, the pin isn't a "Lock" pin as such and is merely a "Stop" so you cannot advance the crank past TDC... they're only £14 though as they're easy to bend when you let kids play (and insist on...

Should have 2xH02 sensors on a '02 model. Most problems are caused by the "pre-CAT" sensor but I wouldn't change anything on a whim... diagnostics + live data session will tell you for sure what, if anything, is at fault.

Agree, deffo not £1750 worth and the guy has openly said its had a gearbox fitted that's wrong so its unlikely to be a simple case of a £21 sender. Even a Megane 16v, Clio 16v or Williams box would fit and would take a sender unit so most likely to be a Cup box on there. Is it a Phase 2 model...

To be honest the diagnosis Kwik-Fit made sounds about right... corrosion on the inner face of the disc results in less surface area for the brake pad to bind on (also, if the current pads have worn badly to the old disc face they won't be working at optimum either) which in turn reduces your...

Every K4J and K4M I've worked on have 2x10mm bolts securing the throttle body down to the top rear of the engine. The airbox is also held down by x2 Torx bolts but i'm certain these aren't supposed to hold the TB in place. Mick

It's unlikely to be pressure related as the system self monitors this and if it's so low as to cause the pump to function incorrectly it simply won't allow its operation. I'd say you're on the money with the pump as the most likely cause of the whine if its only there when the magnetic clutch is...

Most likely cause is the cable is done for and needs changing. DON'T buy a "Universal" cable kit because they always end in tears especially when a genuine Renault one is about £17 and so easy to fit yourself (Just remember the correct routing)

No you need them all to spin if you're doing the job properly as you are supposed to 'spin' the newly fitted setup 5 or 6 times in the direction of normal rotation to check the tensioner mark is bang on prior to final assembly and not moving all over the place.

Because the way the timing belt run is tensioned requires for all sprockets to rotate freely. I liked the F7R method but when you've done a few F4R's and K4M's you soon get used to the way things are now.

Does it have a button on the stalk first of all? Not all Clio II's do! If it does then its proberbly the button is stuck in but if it doens't... Uh-oh!

Sounds like a backfeeding earth... meaning they're sharing a common ground which isn't enough to run both units. Check the earths matey and if needs be, for testing purposes, run a dedicated earth direct to the bodywork. Mick

Clutch 'judder' is likely to be caused by either contamination of the clutch plate, heat damaged flywheel and/or a damaged/worn pressure plate. How many iles has the vehicle covered and when was the last clutch kit change? Sounds like its getting ready for a clutch to me mate ;)

What exactly were these "Other couple of problems" that your corrected? Does it appear to 'spin' faster when trying to start it? Personally, I think timing is the most likely issue and either the bottom sprocket or cam/dephaser pulleys are just spinning due to incorrect torque being applied to...

"Immobiliser Relay"... no such thing I'm afraid matey it's all CAN Bus and coded transmission these days. I can't comment on the problem of it just not turning over at all as it sounds like you've got a couple of problems to me (Maybe a broken/corroded earth) but only a thorough diagnostics...

Alarm goes off... Do you have an aftermarket setup fitted? In that case I would have a health check diagnostics session because i've never known a faulty crank position sensor cause a sport to beep. It could be a totally seperate issue but a genuine Renault "updated" sensor and new loom section...

That's very true Brun - I went to price up some service bits for a mates 172 today using a local auto-factors and the following parts came to £87 Oil - 5l Oil Filter - Coopers Air Filter - Coopers Pollen Filter - Coopers Plugs x4 - NGK Granted, you can drop £45 from that for the plugs alone...

What's wrong with that Fred? Blast it with the airline and replace... job done ;)

Re: Diagnostic check due to 'Injector fault'' warning light came on, found other fau Those codes mean nothing to me i'm afraid... what diagnostic equipment did you plug it in to for those? Renault specific codes begin "DF" and have three digits after it (Example "DF123") then EODB-II Codes...

Sounds starter related then. Have you not got a local garage that will take a look for you? Mick

The UCH is a "Multi-function" controller and on the plus side the relays are replaceable but i'm not sure if they're external 12v relays or if they're internal micro-relays for the turn signals. I'm sure you will be able to send it off somewhere like ECU Testing for a fix though rather than...

Sorry a bit of clarification - You say "to fire up wen the engine is cold, it takes bout 5-10+ turns of the key" but do you mean the cranking speed is slow or does it turn over pretty fast but just won't cough in to life? I'm assuming it's the slow cranking speed but wanted to be sure. Mick

Not so sure on the WD40 part myself... it's penetrating oil you know not a cleaner... but if it's working again BIG Thumbs up!

It depends on what he gave for it I guess... I'd be rate pissy about the lack of an air filter for sure and would be wanting some pound notes back especially if it was there before you took delivery but then it vanished after collection! Service history (or lack of) is just a fail on his part as...

Sounds like there is a few issues there especially the "It sounds like a diesel" and the cutting out at low engine speeds. Stalling out issues and MIL coming on is *most likely* to be linked to the throttle: IMO, either a wiring issue, a pedal potentiometer issue or a fault with the stepper...

So they just said DF038 and not DF038/1 or 38/2? If it's just DF038 then it's an open circuit so most likely going to be a faulty sensor. Does the code clear but then come back straight away or does it vanish until the next cold start? Check for +12v on pin 'A' of the H02 sensor m/plug Ensure...