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Chances of seizing are low but if its worn/dry it could collapse as its under tension... the end result will be the same - Potential to do timing damage!

That sounds more like a stuck/seized solenoid to me rather than an imob issue as the imob doesn't stop cranking, it drops injector/ignition/fuel pump signals. Key in ignition and try to start the car - Red LED on + Solid = key recognised & Imob disabled... car okay to start Key in ignition and...

When was the gearbox oil last checked/changed? Could be the common JC5 5th gear end nut issue but i'd get it looked at to rule out something simple Vs something terminal. Does it "crunch" or jump out of 5th at all? Mick

How old is the vehicle and how many miles has it done?

Firstly, check the condition of the solenoid wire to the starter... they're prone to poor connections or fraying wire which gives issues like this and make sure all battery connections are good and tight. Secondly, are you 100% sure on the starter itself? Have you tried jumping/bumping the car...

Click >>here<< to open the New PM window (sign in if required) then type "ChrisH" in the recipients tab... then "send" to message him. Tell him I sent you over for advice then he'll proceed to lay in to me and help you out where possible - honestly though the guy is one of the few people that...

Ahh right, I'm with you now - I thought they were telling you that you couldn't buy the Aux Belt Service kit... appologies, my bad. That's a proper pain in the arse then - especially as its nothing more than a mock power steering jockey wheel and now I can't believe how much they want for it...

What a load of rubbish! Who ever is telling you that is full of shite as I've just purchased another x5 "Aux. Service Kits" as pictured below to go in to my stock this weekend from my local Renault dept and they currently retail at £41.34 + vat each for the K4M/K4J with A/C! The part number...

No offence but forget C16v - Head over to Retro-Renault. When you've signed up for a free account speak to a guy called ChrisH - What he doesn't know about the Energy engines isn't worth knowing! Just a word of warning though, don't BS him as he doesn't suffer fools gladly but I promise you...

If you mix it more it'll be weaker and so protect to whatever you need it to... Hydrometers are cheap these days and very easy to use ;) I can't see why it wouldn't be okay to use as it has corrosion inhibitors. Its just a tad strong at -37 degrees for this climate.

Theyre a heavy breathing unit and yes they do use a bit - check the airbox and i bet the ECM is swimming in black stuff. Obviously leaks or other problems like ring wear will speed up consumption but as its only a 1.2 why drive it like you're on Pikes SS2... just grab another gear.

If its Glycol based then yes it will be fine but it needs mixing still to protect to around -23 degrees... thats what "type-d" means afterall, not the colour or the fact the pre-mix from Renault has this written on the label.

The "TPS" or "Throttle Position Sensor" transforms the rotary movement of a throttle plate to a resistance value which the ECM then translates to an electroninc throttle position as a % from 0% (Being shut) to 100% (Being fully open). From this reading it knows how to work out the fuelling...

As above, check the electrical "Health" of the injectors. Also check that the connection hasn't broken off as they're a poor design TBH and easily damaged resulting in misfire like symptoms.

Well that's good then if you can't see any fluids in the plugwells. The King Lead is the main lead from the Ignition module to the centre of the distributor cap. Have you checked the condition of the distributor car and rotor arm yet? Uh-oh.... The TPS position is factory set as there's a fair...

Right, there's several ways to "clear" the plug wells of oil... some approved, others more "pikey". Firstly pull each lead out as it's not hard to visually inspect these engines for leaks. If there's any sign of a lead end looking like a dipstick you'll know there's a leak. Have a good look down...

Oh it happens more oftern than you know but in the case of the F7P/R-7XX engines its normally oil in them caused by leaking cam covers or cam carriers... new gasket and/or Loctite 518 is your friend ;) Mick

It depends what you call "Cold" air Vs what is actaully "Chilled" air as low R134a pressure could be a reason as could a faulty request from the climate control - Get the A/C system checked as you won't guess your way out of this one i'm afraid.

There's your problem right there... no seriously - Mr Clutch!!! You might aswell have taken it to Kwik-Fit! Take it back and make them sort it but expect a barrage of BS reasons as to why its not there fault or there parts.

Agreed, take it back - It could be nothing but a "whining" or "ticking" noise can be due to an overly tight belt which ultimately ends up looking like this:

Needs a service... basically the throttle body (and idle air control circuit depending on age of vehicle) needs cleaning out as it will be gunked up with oil vapour. When this gunk is cold its pretty sticky and stops the finely controlled moving parts reacting as fast as they need to keep the...

The rest... pretty simple garage work tbh:

Are you sure it'll do SRS? I'm sure the generic code readers such as these £40 wonders are only able to look at the generic 'Engine' side of things rather than ABS/SRS/UCH/Alarm/TCS/ESP

You wouldn't need to unless you wanted the VIN numbers to match or to have the unit reconfigured due to say different equipment on the trigger lines as the SRS ECM is setup to expect specific resistance values on certain "Trigger" lines. If you get a unit from a Ph2 172 it will go in yours and...

nope - All it will do is display a mismatched VIN on the diagnostic screen to the one of your car.

not got that one i'm afraid... I think mine are all Megane/Scenic items

Yep, its honestly that simple - Assuming that there aren't any issues with resistance values on any of the trigger lines of course as these will flag up in the form of a flashing SRS + SERV light. As I said, the only thing that will stand out is the VIN number for the SRS ECM when/if it goes...

Mwhahahaaaaaaa - Pikey fix for the win! If the car has been in a shunt large enough to trigger the detonation of a bag then the SRS ECM will log a detonation event and rightly so, trigger the light. This can be reset but the "event" will forever be logged. This is why the SRS ECM is replaced...

@ Banjo - If oil was entering the cylinders it would be smoking its tits off whilst running (in any fashion) and the only butile seals that would allow oil to enter the cylinders would be valve stem seals. Failing that it would be either piston rings and/or cylinder head gasket at fault... but...

Doh! Oh well, all done and running again now. It always pays to have that pressure check carried out before replacing a head with valves that look okay ;)