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First of all, wait to see what the strip down diagnosis is before going off! The timing belt work they carried out could turn out to be perfect and if it has actually siezed the engine it's unlikely a timing belt change would have caused this (unless the dephaser pulley seal has been leaking...

Don't you just plug in the computer and it tells you exactly what's wrong mate? :rofl:

That's most likely going to be the problem... faulty or just simply no stat fitted!

I see where Danny is going with this... incorrect diagnosis to begin with (Either that or someone has stung you for a sensor that they never fitted). Check the condition of the wiring to the H02 sensor as it's close to the exhaust and so susceptible to damage - this is the cause of a lot of so...

You mean it was thick, gloopy, brown shiz? That's common on F7P/R's that have run water for long periods and you'll struggle to get it right again without replacing the resevoir, matrix, rad and pipework but you'll get the worst bits out. The chance of you causing a blockage are slim mate - It...

Of course it could just be an old, slow sensor with a buggered heater element but if there's a leak a gas analyser will show the problem up straight away.

Have used them myself as they're only up the road from me and can vouch for them... another is Gee Diesels but they're more of a Diesel specialist rather than a refurbisher/service agent.

There you go then - H02 Sensor it was then. Have you done it yet and how's it faring?

"DF127" is a fault code that is shown under a Renault diagnostic session... You really should seek the help of a local specialist though IMO as it's gonna need plugging in to help focus your efforts with a repair. Mick

1.5DCi/K9K I'm guessing? It really needs diagnostics as guessing isn't cheap on these but the problems are normally very simple to find and kill; Could be EGR related, Glowplug relay or, my personaly bet after a "Burning" smell is 'DF127'. Where are you based? Mick

Coolant Temp Sensor or possibly the H02 sensor... CTS is the cheapest so without diagnostics to back it up i'd swap that first. Mick

Where is the leak? I'd say fix that exhaust first mate as i've seen this on Hyundai's before and it normally means the flexi section in the front pipe has blown.

I think the current wiring is more likely to be the issue rather than the sensor you've replaced... the main reason why Renault issued a tech solution creating the new loom mentioned above. New part will set you back around £60 from a dealer though the part(s) can be had from a decent...

How do you know you have no rear brake operation? More info required please... fluid levels, system integrity. You say the rear callipers are not siezed but how do you know this? Generally if there's no rear brakes at all the problem is the callipers themselves as the rear bias is controlled...

If it was fine before but now it's playing silly beggars then it's something you've done i'm afraid. It's been a while since I've played with a Mk1 valver but they're normally very simple to work with: The Stat is easy enauogh to check - simply unbolt the thermostat housing from the side of...

Yup, bonet switch connector... IIRC the Cup didn't have this (Cost/Weight saving knowing Renault) There's normally a switch in the front grill section that sits in the plastics. You could no doubt fit one with ease if it bothered you that much.

Sounds like either a leaking cylinder, air in the system or generally very poor adjustment. Did you reset the auto-adjuster? If you're unsure about these things you really shouldn't be playing with them... they are your brakes afterall!

Normally the SRS circuit is a self diagnosing system that looks for open circuits at 'key-on' test. If the circuits are all closed and the resistence readings on the trigger lines are within scope the light will go off and stay off with a resistor in place. However, If a crash signal has been...

Boo - that indeed sucks! Next step is to strip the timing covers away to see what's occured. Are you a competant DIYer able to do this job with the aid of a Haynes "book of lies" manual or do you need help? I'm nowhere near Aberdeen i'm afraid but I know a very good man in Glasgow that would...

I can't answer that i'm afraid as i've no experience with it.

Sounds like a dying crank position sensor to me but Diagnostics will say for sure even if the MIL is off - check to see if "Trigger tooth signal missing" is present as a 'Memory' fault.

Popping from the inlet or "spit back" is, IMO, more likely to be a timing issue or an over fuelling issue... the F4R injectors are easily damaged so check the connections for signs of damage. Mick

Pics?

So, just to clarify, when you turn the distributors "Drive" the rotor arm spindle turns with it? I think its safe to assume the spark on 3 but nothing else is because the distributor isn't cranking to make contact with 1, 2 or 4 but I just want to be clear in my mind that the distributor isn't...

What's the current fluid level and brake pad life like?

Right, we need to confirm the timing belt is still intact and operational but I suspect its not if the dizzy drive isn't spinning. Remove the oil filler cap and get a friend to turn the engine over... can you see the cam rotating? Another thing to check; is there a spark? Trying to rule out a...

The E7J is cam driven so if you're 100% sure the timing belt hasn't gone it sounds like the distributor is buggered. Remove it from the cylinder head and confirm/deny the 'drive' keyway is intact

You don't need any tools to confirm basic timing: Pikey method = Plug out of cylinder 1 or 4 + long screwdriver in the hole to show postion of crank. Knock the end caps out of the cylinder head at the cam 'setting bar' position and observe the notches. Bring the crank @ TDC on No.1/4 = Notches...

Generally, you are correct in that the MAP Sensor values are used to determin engine "Load" in the eyes of the ECM but do not confuse the "Engine Load" reading on your equipment for those of the "MAP Sensor Pressure" or "MAP Sensor Voltage" readings as they're different and on seperate channels...

Most proberbly an H02 sensor or wiring fault but it needs fixing really as if it is a faulty H02 your fuel consumption will start to increase.