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Throttle body gunked up is the most likely cause of the poor idle responce but the MIL on could be linked. Start by removing it and giving it a bloody good clean and see if that sorts it though I suspect as the MIL is on the car will need the fault codes reading and clearing.

I've seen em go for as little as £10 - I've got a couple laying about the garage from various vehicles i've broken. If you can get me your part number i'll see if I can match it to one for you. Mick

Replace the SRS ECU - You can have it reset but it will always have the detonation event stored. Second hand "like for like" unit from a same spec car being broken will plug straight in and give no issues other than the VIN's not matching but if I can sort that i'm sure there are others more...

I've got x2 KU31's on eBay at the minute with 7mm tread... shame they're 205/40/17

Depends - I've seen a few UCH issues start this way... Run for a few seconds and then die. There is also a documented "issue" with the Sirus ECM similar to this IIRC. That issue requires a reprogram to fix it - I'll have a read thru some bits later tonight if I get chance... gotta take the...

I don't know what the current retail is on an OP switch but I always prefer to prove something is fudged before splurging out on it but i'm a tight ass diagnostician so meh! If its only £20 then fair enough, its worth a punt but a flickering warning light can also be attributed to a physical low...

Nope, the subframe just gets in the way enough to forbid you clearing the pickup point so you have to either lift the complete lump or drop the subframe... rate pain in the rear! Oil pressure should be 3Bar @ 3k rpm when warm (which according to the book and for the purpose of testing is 80...

Things to bare in mind: Exhaust - Just because the exhaust has an obvious emission output doesn't mean the system doesn't have a blockage... but that's just my opinion. Injectors - If the spray pattern or flow rate isn't correct the ECM will be unable to correctly control them at low to medium...

@ Jonny - Yeah me to cos its not a nice job to inspect/change the pump of the F4R without pulling the lump and putting it on a stand... it is do-able but its not nice. I've seen a few newer Renaults though where the sump has been siliconed back on after some service actions. Now there's...

You say it won't idle OR run and its like its overfuelling? How did you come to the overfuelling verdict? When did it last run correctly? Was anything carried out maintenence wise prior to the fault? Has anyone had the engine running since in ANY form... missing, lumpy, refusing to rev, etc...

Agreed, its most likely the oil pressure warning light is coming on because of... A fault with the oil pressure switch. A fault with the oil pump - eg. a blockage in the pickup or wear in the pump. You really should get it to a garage to have the oil pressure measured to confirm or deny the...

Did you not think to try a spare plug in the end of each lead first to see if they're all sparking? Also, why not just carry out a compression test first before removing the head?

It could honestly be a number of things... a poor connection or the "SAS" itself is pretty common as these cars get on a bit but swapping it on a whim isn't smart so get it diagnosed - plus i'm sure the "SAS" needs setting up on a CLIP

So is it Michaels or Johns? Apparently has every option available fitted to it to... all of them apart from Climate, SatNav, Leather, decent wheel package, styling pack and Xenon upgrade

Most TDCi's with a tuning box are potent these days. When did it (The RS) last have a proper service and check over?

Aye, deffo likely to be the water pump... might aswell stick a timing belt on it to.

I don't *believe* you can matey (though i've not goolged it) - As above, connect it to a PC/BBDM then smack them out of the Bold to your Outlook contacts then do a factory reset on the device to make sure everything has been destroyed if you plan to sell the BB on. The iPhone will be able to...

Things do go wrong though - no manufacturer can say with 100% certainty that 100% of there products will function or perform 100% of the time, everytime. Even new parts can come out of a box and be found to be faulty and Renault don't make every component in the assembly that makes up your car...

Delete me please

True, there's a lot of overlap on these 8v units but I'm sure you can't get the timing 180 degrees out on the D7F as the cam/cam pulley have a woodrough key so, if you're 100% sure the marks are in the right place then timing isn't the issue. If the pulley wasn't fitted properly to the keyway it...

The newer VVC K4M's don't seem to do as well as the older non-VVC units did on fuel. I get 36-38 nailing my Scenic about which is pointless cos it doesn't exactly move faster, it just makes more noise :P If I drive it normally and keep it below 5k rpm I see 42mpg or more on long trips up and...

Not much experience with them... I mainly get the Clio III in 1.5DCi flava through my doors but they're pretty nippy, good on fuel and not too bad on tax either. I think SidewaysDanny had good things to say about the 1.6 16v in these in a previous thread(?) Mick

If the red light is steady when you put the key in the ignition, even when the car refuses to start say's it is not an imobilliser issue. A diagnostic session will say for sure but i'd guess the crank position sensor/circuit is at fault myself.

Assuming its not losing coolant rings is a good guess but you say the rear screen is getting wet so it sounds like the bores are pushing water out to me - check coolant level and report back.

Nope - TDC/Crank Position sensor wouldn't allow the car to run at all if it was faulty as its one and only task is to tell the ECM when the crank position reaches TDC.

Spring coil busted, ARB bush,Exhaust mount, Under tray... could be a few things TBH but really, the only way you're gonna know for sure is to get it looked at pdq. Mick

Be sure the IACV is seated and operating correctly... and the breather pipes that connect it all together. If that doesn't help make sure there's no damage to the inlet section that the IACV sits in then finally, be sure to check the TB is nice and clean and not gunked up with nasty oil...

Okay, first of all the imobilliser will not "reset" itself... It's an active system that unless the battery is disconnected is always working in one way or another. When you put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start the car what is the "state" of the red LED center of the clockset...

WTF, why did they advisory that - The technician was a qualified MOT tester yeah? The image above shows new, young apprentices for K-F learning to use the cutting edge four wheel laser alignment equipment

On a 1.2 TCE it is - My work bus (1.6 16v Scenic) does 42-45mpg all day long and thats lugging all my tools and kit about. Back to Renault for a Clip/Live data session to see what HO2S1 is up to along with the CTS