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You can't get better than a Kwik-fit fitter... apparently! LMGDAO In a way you're very lucky its an older, bomb proof engine as the newer 16v engines wouldn't like this happening one bit!! I'm with Danny on this with the bolts coming loose allowing the pulley drive to fall away. Strange though...

And the car is????? The ABS fault could be linked as it carries out many functions other than ensuring you don't lock up on some models. Sounds like you've either got a dead master cylinder or brake servo. The fact that you've got some braking says the master cylinder is fine and its servo...

Try putting a multimeter across the two terminals on each unit and make a note of each resistance value - If they're in a good electrical condition/state they'll be around 13.5-15.5 Ohms each. If they're all showing higher then i'm afraid they're fubar'd but as above, possibly refurbish-able (If...

"ECM Wiring" - Have you checked all the main earth points and confirmed that they're all clean and giving a low, reliable resistance value? You also said you've checked the ECM wires... was this purely a visual inspection or did you do a point to point trace on each specific line from ECM to...

If it was only doing it when connected I'd suspect either an ECM or wiring fault but as it's all the time it sounds like you've got a set of faulty/seized injectors as they *should* be closed until the ECM triggers them. Send them away for testing/cleaning as they *may* be salvageable

100% Thermostat stuck open... replace it with a new one, add some coolant and you'll be toastie and warm again in no time!

I can see that you Welsh tart... I mean't who makes it & who made the adaptor plate cos me likey?

lol @ 160bhp - That's a bang tidy looking build and Aero-quip pornography to match! Need to ask; what's the water pump setup? Mick

My Laguna II did this and it was a fault with the hydraulic concentric clutch slave which is covered by warranty! Either way it should be back at Renault asap for a warranty claim IMO

Nope - the fact the heater temp rapidly changes also leads me to think you've got water pump problems.

Live data/resistance check on the pedal tracks required to ensure conformity. Also, the 1.2 16v is plagued with electrical gremlins of which a poor motorised throttle body is an issue... they are problematic so should be ruled out. Other issues are mainly wiring related so inspect the main loom...

Either the IAT sensor itself at fault or a wiring issue to it

Jump ;) - Sorry, what was the question again?

Drums on the rear? Proberbly friction material fallen off the shoe and jammed the rear wheel up... nice in these temps! Firstly, have you tried rotating it anti-clockwise to attempt to free it off? Secondly, you have you removed the 28mm nut hidden behind the centre cap right? (Silly question...

The "live data" screens should show what's not 100% right... CTS is the most common sensor that effects fuelling and running when faulty... also effects the Ho2 sensors as the car will fuel incorrectly (Normally on the rich side). The newer MAP Sensors are normally bomb proof and rarely go wrong...

Take it somewhere with proper diagnostics to get looked at... code readers don't always hold the answer ;) How old is the car? Sounds like a cold start issue so my guess is an EGR fault or something to do with the cold start relay circuit. Mick

Faults do happen as no manufacturer can say with 100% certainty that there products have a 100% reliability rate but did they "lock" the new pulley before fitting it? I've not done one on an F4R in a while now... everything is K4J/M at the minute and I believe they come pre-locked from Renault...

The last rear disc service kit I purchased from Renault came to £117 and some pocket change which I thought was more that reasonable... try them and don't be afraid to ask for a discount!

We assure you, it is quite normal on a Renault - Count yourself lucky, I've had friends with ABS'd Renault 19's that have caught fire when they hit the brakes... it's a 19 "Bendix" thing :rolleyes:

This +1

Indeed and thats you being very fair and sensible I think - People are fairly fast to act aggressively without thinking as sometimes things just go wrong thru no fault of anyone in particular. Obviously if it is timing related it needs to be looked at and resolved ASAP but I personally think...

It could be a leaky exhaust, poor cat performance, faulty Ho2, CTS, incorrect timing or, in the case of a 2.0 206, hydraulic lifters (ghey JW10 engine). Who did the belt change? Id be taking it back but be nice... it isnt necesarily there fault.

A wiring issue is the most likely cause in the door jam but If he managed to get it back up with a few wires me thinks, speaking as an autospark, the motor/regulator is most likely fine and he proberbly took the doorcard off and reversed the motor polarity. £120 though - i need to up my game!

Read The Manual!

Thats fuel used or flowed in gallons iirc

AFAIK that link only relates to early remote CL keys with IR transmission and NOT RF Keys Also, you can leave the battery out of an RF key for days and it will re-sync itself as its physically paired to the UCH of the vehicle... this can only be done once which is why 2nd hand keys cannot be...

Depends what you want it to do - SnapOn Modus, Launch, Etc all come in around £1100-1900 + vat I guess it depends on what level you want to get in to "things" but kit like this tends to be beyond the financial reach of most DIYers

For under £100 you're unlikely to get anything like a fully functional scan tool... if you could garages everywhere would buy them. I do believe that every true enthusiast should have something like this in their tool box though. Unfortunatly, the u380 will only do generic "P" codes for the...

It will not be the Imob... trust me, i'm an autospark and it will most likely be a fault to the starter solenoid circuit as mentioned above... single white wire with a spade connector on it that actuates when you turn the key is the common culprit. Failing that, it'll be either the multiplug to...

Danny is bang on the money with the spun the bottom sprocket - These engines are "Keyless" and rely upon correct torque settings and the use of proper tools to set and lock the timing in place. Proberbly had the belt done incorrectly at some point in its life and the standing launch pursuaded it...