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PMSL. I've never seen any damage to the chassis. The mount will always eat itself first. Also, Failsport hit a new record last night. Clutch change on a Ph1 172 in 3 hours 45 mins. Including a 15 minute break to nom a pizza! Doing them in my sleep TBH.

He drove over it. His fault.

Blue bits look poncy. Should have spent the money on tyres and fuel. Also, don't really see the point in a detachable steering wheel unless you've got a cage which makes it impossible to get in and out! Other than that, looks ok.

Take it straight back.

Take one of your old ones out and measure it!

Definite. Buy a complete unit off someone breaking on here and they go straight in. PM Nick172cup i think he's got some for sale.

As Chip says. 172 Cup widetrack is best.

You two make me sick.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but you really do sound like a bit of a plank. If this technology was so good, OEM's would be running it in every car by now. NO questions. Just because something's available as a franchise, doesn't mean it's any good.

Christ on a bike! We all start somewhere though, i suppose. You'd have got a pretty decent knocking noise should you have taken that for a spin. (;

How does it make it more efficient by using 100% of the fuel rather than 70%?! Trust me, it's bullshit. With the millions of £££'s that OEM's put into development, do you not think one of them would be using technology like this if all a car put out was steam?

PMSL. It'll be reet.

You knows i love this.

Incredible work. My favourite part has to be seeing your reflection though. Oh, and WTF (!!!) are those wheelz, bruv?

Rear carriers don't move. Only the piston does.

Put the carrier on without the pads. You should then be able to slot the pads in, tap the pin back in and put all the springs back.

If your header tank is old and yellow looking- remove it. Stick a bit of warm water and fairy liquid in. Pour half a cup of rice in. Shake it all about. Flush it clean. Job's a good'un.

There is a specific plug people recommend using. I'm not sure which though. Manifold gasket is between the upper and lower inlet. You'll see it when you take the upper off. I've always reused them though- you'll be alright to do a visual check on it. If it looks fucked, get it swapped.

Having H&R coilovers fitted.

On a 172. Battery out. Airbox out. Upper inlet off (6x 10mm bolts) and sensors etc. HT leads off. Undo plugs.

JC5 129 is the Ph2 box. JC5 089 is Ph1 172. JC5 130 is 182. From memory. Like i said, as long as it's got a speedo drive, it'll work fine. I fitted a JC5 129 to my Ph1 and the ratios were almost identical.

Yep, will be an AC button on the heater controls unless it has climate control. In which case it has air con..

As long as you check for speedo drive or not, you'll be hard pushed to notice the difference. Even when fitted.

Just stuck in. Get a length of cutting wire and away you go.

PMSL. I've always said if i won the lottery i'd buy a Trophy, torch it and stick the video on here.

No chance unless you're a complete mong, lol. When i've had to drill these out in the past, i've just taken the head off. No need to drill and retap the whole in the hub. All it does it locate the disc. Just line it up by eye and use the wheel bolts to hold it in place.

They just get a bit sticky. I always make sure i undo these when the calipers are still on. Get someone to hold the brakes on and they should undo. Ideally, a small impact gun whips these off in seconds. Failing that, drill the heads off. The bolts are really soft.

I've worked on both of these, so i'm pretty amazed that they both made it there. Top pics gents. Both look awesome!

Had a hissy fit and left. Somethign about trader fees.

Yesterday. Thought you;d done me at Addlestone Moor but it seems the power of the 106 was just too much. CS sticker in the back window..