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Served me well.

Well if you plan on replacing it, make sure you do it with one that has the same part number or barcode on it. That way it won't need any coding to the car, it should be a straight swap.

Anyone fancy an older 3/8 sub compact? The model is M12BIW38-202C It's ideal for the smaller job, the M6, M8, M10. Not really sure what's its worth... Maybe £70? More details on it here https://www.bigredpowertools.co.uk/milwaukee-m12biw38-202c Looking at upgrading to the 3/8 stubby.

If it's been set off in an impact, it can be sent off and reset. There's services on eBay that offer that. Are you sure it's not just the seat wiring that's causing the service lights? It's very common.

😂 It's just a 20mm hole up in the footwell, comes out about where the abs pump is. It's a bit rig up but if it works, right?

That pic taken from under the scuttle panel?

Where's that 😂 Mine didn't look to have nearly as much room as that 🤔

I tried this when I was fitting the oil gauge. Fucked it off and just drilled a hole and stuck a grommet on it, put the wires through and then stuck some black sealant in to seal it up proper.

Let me know if you want me to have a go at some point.

Was going to say this. I went for the long neck, just so I have more options.

If you're near me in Warrington, I can have a go with RSTuner... No guarantees 😂

When are you at Oulton? I'm there 5th December.

Yeah it must be up there around 400 or so. I've checked the temperature of mine after a cool down and they were around 200 I think.

Yeah, although you won't really see those higher temperatures for sustained periods on a track day so the ds1.11 have a higher coefficient from cold.

Yeah be fine as long as you don't get steel rivnuts. They take a fair bit of force compared to the aluminium and others.

No idea, but that first one you could take it out and stick an M6 rivnut in there instead.

Yeah they 100% make a difference! It's only the 172 Cup that they do very little due to the lack of ABS. On the 182 they do probably 30% of the effort i'd say. Also, the higher friction pad you go, the more the heat will be transferred into the brake fluid. I run Castrol SRF, it's not cheap...

Swan neck ring spanner you want so it clears the lip.

I use PBS and find them decent enough. Not that expensive? Are you running them front and rear? They need the rears to work their best.

Higher friction coefficient pads will improve the feel. CL RC6, DS1.11 or Winmax W5/W6 Any of them will be plenty.

Yeah Yuasa are decent batteries. Not sure how they compare to the Bosch Ah and CCA rating wise.

Most likely dead. You can get chargers that have a repair function that runs a special cycle, but they're like £100+ so a battery would be cheaper.

2 minute job replacing the coilpack (y)

Not visually really no, unless theres like burn marks if it's managed to arc across or something.

Usually the coilpacks that go, the leads are normally fine unless they get trapped under the inlet plenum. Unplug each one and have a look in the ends for any cracks or splits.

Speak to Nick at Pure, he's really helpful.

Are yours actually dead or just wanting to replace them? I'd probably go for some Magnecor ones, if you can't find any OEM ones cheap enough.

Yeah they're not cheap 😅

Two buckets with grit guards for starters, if you haven't already. Carpro Reset shampoo A decent wash mitt, Gyeon, Gtechniq, Carpro A nice drying towel, Klin Duo or similar