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I did put something up about this month's ago. From memory mine are as follows M8 x 40 (I think)12.9 high tensile cap head bolts x 4 M8 washers x 8 M8 penny/repair washers x 8 M8 nyloc nuts x 4 I also reused the original top hat nuts from the seats to double up underneath, also used...

I/we trailer mine around, as others have said its peace of mind should anything go wrong. Yes it can be a pain to load up after all day out on track but for me its well worth the hassle Be careful with towing weights though as they go on maximum capacity rather than the actual weight carried at...

Yep they've definetly seen better days

Yep exactly the same

Should be able to access them with everything in place, there is room to get some mole grips on the captive nut if you're not confident in cutting it off

@Martin. what did you use out of interest? I assume its brushed on? Ads

Yep just plain old normal power steering fluid

Frame wise speak to @JON FOZ, he's makes some very good ones (keep meaning to get some myslef) omp frames don't sit level and cobra ones very rarely fit without modification, plus the ones Jon does sit lower than all others I've seen. Seats are very much personal preference, whether you want...

Ring renault parts direct, don't go main dealer. My earlier post should have said renault parts direct, it would appear my brain doesn't engage in the morning anymore

Yeah that's the one, it would appear they've gone up in price then? Sure I only paid £33 each for a pair from Renault parts a few months ago

Have you tried western power steering? They're based in Weston-Super-Mare but I'm pretty sure they post. I had some electric power steering bits from them years ago and it was spot on, might be worth a try

I use a Launch CRP229 and it works fine (although it's far from cheap at approx £5-600) unfortunately vehicle manufacturers only have to allow generic engine fault codes to be read by any diagnostic tool, all other systems can be 'locked' meaning that without fairly sophisticated diagnostic...

The tilt mechanism is cable operated, I imagine that this cable has broken in the seat back, when you lift the handle to tilt the seat it operates a locking bar across the base of the seat, slide the seat as far forward as you can and you should be able to see the mechanism and lift it manually.

Can't comment on GSF but I'd avoid Euro, never had one for a clio but my best mates bora daily blew the original rack a couple of years ago. Think he was onto his 4th 're conditioned' item from Euro in less than 6 months when we decided to just get a 2nd hand original replacement. The last rack...

They'll be fine, I run cup dampers with eibach pro springs on my 172 but to be fair my old rear shocks were leaking fluid everywhere by the time I got round to changing them. As for the actual process of swapping them over its pretty simple really just a bolt at the bottom and a nut on top...

You maybhave extend the wiring loom for the radio, I can't honestly remember how much slack there is in the original loom, depending on whereabouts in the glovebox you have the wiring coming in theey may be issues as the heater duct runs behind and the passenger airbag is on top of glovebox...

Theres two 10mm bolts that hold the sensor to the sill/side of the car and the electrical connector. As with any airbag issues its always advisable to disconnect the battery and leave the car alone for 30 minutes before touching airbag system to allow any electrical current to dissipate first.

There are many sensors associated with airbag/srs system. To be honest without having the codes read it's pretty hard to diagnose anything. It will save time/money in the long run to have the codes read first, if either if you are anywhere near Gloucester/Forest of Dean I'd be more than happy to...

I think they run down into the scuttle panel and drain via the 3 points you've already cleaned up. The Mrs dci has a leaky sunroof that at some point I will remove and replace the seal between the sunroof and boywork

The rear should, but I imagine you'd need to swap the whole front end over in order to fit the front bumper

Yep that'll do it

There's 3 drain bungs in the scuttle under the wipers. Check these first as they're probably full of gunk and the water is running through the heater assembly as it has no where else to go

I've run 205's fine, it was only the fact that a cousin rang me and said he knew of some 215 direzza's going cheap up his way and was I interested? Thought it best to ask before becoming an unfortunate guinea pig

How far do you want to go with it? Sport rep with bumpers, wings, side skirts and headlights? Or more subtle with ph2 colour coded rub strips/mirrors Or leave as it is and just enjoy it and keep it well maintained

Could well be, if theres a noise or free play in the drivers side then have it changed. Whilst normally you'll hear a bearing whining when you add 'load' to it they can also be heard when the opposite happens, when I was in the trade years ago we always checked both sides for the exact reason...

Sounds like there's the starter motor wiring is touching parts it shouldn't be and energising as soon as you connect up the battery. Double check the live feed and go from there

Thank you, exactly the sort of answer I was hoping for, I've run 205 45 16 and 195 50 15 without issue, think I'll give them a miss as I really don't want to be messing with bodywork

I thought there was 1 on each? Have you got it mounted back on the lug on the bulkhead? It's not the easiest to find but when I didn't have mine lined up it didn't want to work properly

Just had a look and it appears that they now do 90 shore bushes too (in yellow) prices seem a lot more reasonable compared to others as well

Polybush wise I think it's just powerflex that produce stuff for mk2 clio and if it's purely for track then I'd go with the black bushes as they're harder (I'm personally in the process of this myself but haven't driven with them yet) or if you're really brave then theres always spherical...