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It's a definite sport that's for sure, I use a Launch CRP229, wasn't exactly cheap but does do what I need

Chassis number will show what model it is, can't remember what was what off the top of my head, but I'll check mine shortly for you. French electrics as I'm sure you can see are tedious at best, admittedly I'm lucky in that my diagnostics will read everything so I can keep checking and...

Just a thought, the airbag switch in the passenger door card is still connected? That threw up the fault lights on mine too

I had to refit the switch on mine unfortunately Just resorted to the dreaded haynes manual, as much as I hate them.My understanding is that in order for the airbag light to stay off the airbag ecu has to see all the above 'working' whether that's by them actually being there or by fooling the...

Pretty certain these are for engine light only, they're ok for the money but I'd imagine they are pretty generic and won't cover other systems. I haven't personally used one so I can't comment on their function

I think it's the seat tilt one you've missed, im sure I used 4 resistors on the drivers seat. Occupancy sensor, seat airbag, seat belt pre tensioner and tilt sensor. If you follow the wiring back on drivers seat you'll find the pair that go to the seat rail, then match them to the car wiring...

I used 3.3 for the wheel, the tilt sensor is in the seat rails, little micro switch that I drilled the rivet out and soldered the wiring back together. Now I think about it once I had sorted all the issues my light did go out, took me ages to get around all the faults though. Very much trial...

Wouldn't have thought the clock spring would change things if you've already taken the wiring out, I have to use different resistors for the steering wheel though compared to the rest, I've also had to leave the drivers tilt sensor and side impact sensors connected as I couldn't get them to...

That'll be 5mm each side and I believe you'll be ok with standard bolts, once you go above 10mm then you need longer bolts

I'd have to disagree, I had to reset mine once I'd fitted resistors, might might just have been awkward but did have to reset

Glad you got it sorted, bloody french electrics :)

No problems, I've not used smd's personally but I have heard the stories of them affecting lights on certain cars

No its only a brake light

It's not mine but I do have one stored away, let me find it and get some photos pm'd to you and go from there if you like?

This one I assume? Just below the red tag there's a little black lug that needs to be lifted up to allow the two halves to seperate

What sort of thing are you looking for, is it just a standard road car or do you use it on track/fast road driving? There are good aftermarket standard mounts available, you can go down the polybush route, or look at solid mounts. The harder the material used to more possibility for there to be...

They are inertia belts, they have a ball bearing (or similar) on a plate, once the belt reel moves or is off its centre then the ball moves to prevent the belt from slackening off, this works in conjunction with the pre tensioner in the seat belt buckle in the event of an accident to hold you...

They would normally yes, what reader are you using out of interest?

Yeah quite probably although they normally throw up either 179 or 180 fault codes (if it's them), have a look down between the edge of the seat and the door shut, will have 2 wires going into it and held in by 2 8 or 10 mm bolts

@jesus is it one of these you're after?

Diagnostic test is the easiest way to narrow things down, having said that I've found one of the more common things is the crash sensors that are bolted to each sill, they're fiddly to get to but worth checking, disconnect and then re connect wiring and see what happens

No problems mate, happy to help

Are all alternator pulleys the same?, I've bought a cup setup and being the clever arse that I am I've damaged the pulley on the cup alt. I've had a quick glance at my original alt that's still in the car and it looks similar but thought I'd check first incase I need to aquire another pulley...

Here you go, one of each size washer on top of subframe and then one large under bodywork before nuts go on Apologies for the darkness of the photos, light was fading fast

Ahh right I see When I fitted my seat (only the one :wink: as otherwise the mrs will want to come in the car too) I used the following 4 M8 x 40mm cap headed bolts (12.9 tensile with allen key head) 4 M8 washers 8 M8 penny/repair washers I also bought nyloc nuts but used the original...

I assume the factory unit was working fine when removed? Checked fuses to make sure none have blown when changing over? ( I know they shouldn't as long as all power was off at the time but you never know)

How are you mounting the seats to the subframes? Fixes side mounts or using adjustable runners? I've got an old thread saved that detailed what was needed, I'll see if I can find it again

The mrs dci has a/c but the heater panel has been changed and no longer has the a/c button, everything works fine (obviously minus the air con bit) can't see why yours would be any different to be honest

So my brother in law has bought a 2003 dci 65, and although it drives ok the speedo reads lower than it should. 30 is reading around 22 and 60 is only showing about 43 on the instrument cluster. I'm not overly up to speed on the whole ABS driven speedo system but hopefully someone can point me...

I think I've got one or two in a box if you're needing a replacement? I've broken up a couple of dci's recently