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Did you fit the fire ring the right way round. One side is flat and the other is curved. Can't remember which way round it goes, but it should be obvious when you look at it.

Take the carpet stuff out the boot and let it dry for a few days / week.

The black rubber boot stops next to the rear lights when you open the boot. Seal them with silicone.

Huh? It's not even close to the wear triangle yet... I'd still use them.

There's one for sale here in Titanium silver though. http://www.cliosport.net/threads/breaking-clio-track-toy.774061/

Yeah, they don't transfer material to the disc like normal pads, so just driving it normally for a while is enough. Then warm them up on track first.

The RC5's really are good aren't they. So much more confidence under heavy braking now that I might have to change my fluid from ATE to something with a higher boiling point haha. What I like about them as well is the fact that they don't really need bedding in as such. I found Ferodo's to be...

Don't say that, i've got some to replace on mine too 😞 On a side note... The Citroen/Fiat ones come with a rubber gasket underneath them, do you keep that on when fitting or remove it?

Yeah, the wheel is pointing in towards the car. So you want the thin side at the rear (it's marked with an arrow i think). http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/Fitting%20guides/Camber%20shims%20instructions.pdf

Mine have been making a fast ticking noise on the rear as bits come flying off lol

Pickup yeah, mine looked like that.

They are correct mate. The track rod ends are the same across the sports. It's only the actual track/tie rods that differ.

The disc/hub needs to come off yeah. The pain from what I've read is the 4 bolts holding the axle on can shear off and they're not available from Renault as a replacement iirc.

A Bluetooth OBD reader with something like the Torque Pro app might show something. It has for me in the past with EML's.

How do you mean Dan? Hard to fit? From what I've seen, it's just a fit and done job. Is it not that simple? Haha

They don't have a general service light after so many miles unlike the Meganes. There should be another light on simultaneously. Unless that light is not working haha.

The SERV light won't show on it's own. There will be another light on with it at the same time. That might give them a clue as to what the problem is.

I've not done mine yet, but from what i've seen it looks easy enough. The 4 stub axle bolts can shear off so i've heard, so that's one to watch out for.

As long as you fit it the right way round, it'll be fine. Otherwise you'll have a bit more camber haha.

Yeah, that's the one. I've got one to fit on mine too.

Either a 10 or 20 minute shim you need from Pure Motorsport. Obviously 20 will bring it down to 0'08 and 10 will be 0'18. 20 minute being a closer match to the left side of 0'11.

It could bring up the pedal fault I think yes, as it is limiting the throttle action due to a fault somewhere else.

Mine was like that, cleaned it up and sealed all the bolts. Been fine ever since.

Sounds like an air leak, so change the manifold gasket first and then see if it still does it.

Yeah that's right.

I'd look at the interior sensors too mate.

Mine hasn't got a bonnet switch and the alarm doesn't trigger because of it.

Insurance is bollox mate 😞

You have to wait a certain time mate. If it's the first wrong attempt, it shouldn't be too long. About 10 minutes I think. It gets longer every time it's entered wrong though, so watch out.

600 will be fine. 750 is good for really tight bolts if you plan on doing any mechanical work though.