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You can do bodies for a lot cheaper than 3k and cams are only £600 brand new if your fitting yourself. Fitting cams changes the power band of an engine, not all about peak figures. You can cam and ITB a car for just over 2k including mapping by buying 2nd hand and fitting yourself, I could have...

Come on now Phil, its a car engine like any other car engine. Cams and ITB's will improve any engine. Wether you want an improvement in torque or bhp, high or low rpm, its all in the correct selection of cams.

No problem with washing an engine with a jet washer, done it all the time in the trade. Good tips are to spray engine lightly with water then degreaser on a warm engine, work into stubborn oily bits. Cover essential electrical connection's like coil pack plug, ecu connections in tinfoil as its...

Seiz's are fiddly to fit with the engine out lol, must be a mair with it in.

Hero

Was it Seiz's ones you fitted? Is that solid bushes or just standard rubbers? Solid ones James?

Yes Ohlins are £850 per insert for my cup racer bilsteins so your looking at around £2500-3000 just for inserts alone then you need cases and springs so say £4500 to build a set with cup racer cases. Muchos £££'s. Ian speedy on here has reiger 3 way adjustable s with external reservoirs and...

There you go then, touch anything suspension and it need's checked.

How much James? I have enough spares but if there going cheap.

They are still going as far as I know unless they have closed in the last couple of months. Main store is in London for the uk tel no:- 0208 542-0042 I have ordered loads of bits, some cant be had but most are, speak to Steve I think it is, he is the mk2 cup racer expert.

If its pulling, most likely tracking needs done. 2.5 should be fine on the road, doing loads of road miles with stiff walled 888's or a048's etc then you will have to swap tyres to get a good life from them.

I would agree a little more than wild with treaded tyres looking back but if its handling your wanting then needs must. They come with 1 or 1.5 or something standard. 3 degrees is a mild slick setup

Best to leave the car on stands for a while for the stud lock to set, that's my ocd there though.

Rad looks good Ian, where did you get the brackets at the top of the pic? Im going to get my inlet angled up as well. Did you need to buy another piece of pipe or was there enough length by cutting and shaping?

Where do you buy from Fred as they are the same price as PMS delivered and you will probably get stung with customs tax as well?

What nuts do you use with them Tony, no match on DT

Lol I dont know what your meaning by do them one at a time, the belt has to be fitted with both cam pulleys slack to allow the belt to be tensioned with the pins in. Put 'ALL' pins in with adjustable cam pulleys turned anti clockwise and bolts loose, fit belt and tension. Tighten cam pulleys...

It was years ago since I last done a Saxo timing belt although I have done many different belt's. Rule of thumb for doing timing belts is start at the crank and work either clockwise or anti depending which side the tensioner is on, leaving the belt to go over tensioner last. Pin the crank and...

The shells up for sale 6 months to late for me or I would have had that. I will be interested in the wheels when you do sell and possibly the ast 2's, let me know

Pin the crank and cams wherever it says to on data sheet, im sure its just drill bits you need to time them engines. Slacken the three outer bolts on the cam pulley and turn them anti clockwise, fit belt crank first, inlet cam 2nd, exhaust cam 3rd and then tensioner. Tension belt, tighten cam...

12 degrees.....really??? Get your car to a ride height where your happy i.e no scrubbing. A bit of rake nose down get the weight on the front wheels. when your happy with that, get it corner weighted then the geo setup. Mild track setup. 3 degrees front, 2.5 rear with 1mm toe out on front...

You selling up, plans changed quick. Any nice bits for sale?

Im with you Pete, I have had a few bad purchases on here. Peoples standard's of "Average" "Good" and "A1" are completely different to mine tbh, be honest in your ad and price your item to suit. Don't think I can get this because John Smith is selling his for this and some stupid t**t has paid...

The spring force is over come by the force you press on the pedal and is only allowed to move as far as you have adjusted the allen key and lock nut. The spring returning it to the up position surely keeps the valve moving and helping to stop seizing no? You are more familiar with these cars...

Potential is there to cause damage to wiring if you go mental, just pierce the metal and no more and you will be fine, take care around the heater box as it contains water in the heater matrix. Rivet nuts are a good solution for securing things in sheet metal with bolts

That 2nd picture you have is actually like how the cup racers ran their filters but the relay box was removed and there was a small aluminium box. The V6 box was only fitted to reduce induction noise so they could meet Db level's for some circuit's. V6 box was supposed to be slightly more...

Aren't ford heavily investing in this technology Chip?

More truth in that ^^^^^^^^^ statement

I just seen a unicorn

Yeah would work fine but with a track car I would have cup inners for peace of mind