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Sorry to hear that Dan, hope its an easy fix. You still have the cup engine?

We then turned the engine over twice and made sure our pins would go back in. Everything was ok and nothing was touching, very happy. We then loosened the 3 bolts again on the cam sprockets to even out the tension on the belts and retighten them. I hope you slackened the cam bolts with the...

As above, you'll be alright. For reference and anyone looking to fit their lightweight pulley kit to a 172 cup you will need to space out the alternator pulley to suit.

I might give it a go if it falls in my time off. It's aimed at 4 wheel drive big power cars IMO. Not a lot needs done to your car to get a bit of competition for cheap though.

Only two way of it increasing when your sure the level was right is water getting into oil but you would see emulsion on oil cap or fuel in oil but it would have detonated or ruined the engine by now.

Take a picture from side on, it looks like you have either too much caster from the first pic or your arch lining is loose. Tyre looks flat too

FFS, no wonder its coming out your breather plate. I'm surprised it isn't passing your rings into the cylinder. I'd get under the car and drain a good litre or more from that mate.

Your car likes a little drink Tigger, can you blame it lol. Signs of a tired engine. A 1/2 litre a month is acceptable depending on mileage but obviously not ideal, keep an eye. Do comparisons while either hot or cold, don't mix them, oil expands when warm.

Check your breather on top of the box too mate for peace of mind. Oil expands when it's warm, especially fully synthetics.

The rubber top mount is meant to go on last after nut. Spring - top hat - washer - nut - bearing - top mount -fit strut then on with top caps. That's how I would do it with what you have and it will drop the top caps down a good bit. Will be fine if the bearing goes over the lock nut.

Just wrote how I thought it old be good and worked then looked at the link lol

Some skills Kenny and patience's of a saint to pull that off. I have honestly seen worse fitted to works car's. Im guessing your swapping out those pozi drive self tappers on dash top?

I'm not saying your wrong that the manifold is the restriction but an enlarged throttle body will give a harsher throttle and could be a benefit for out on track IMO when mapped. The reason Renault never done it as standard is the same as every other manufacturer and that's to not undercut...

Non, en fait elle est très bien montée : j'ai été moi même étonné mais c'est bon ! Avez-vous la machine la culasse tout en reconstruisant le moteur?

You could trim the slam panel I think though Phil if you have the right filter and back plate choice, as you say the trumpets nearly touch the slam panel so 30mm on top for the filter which will still leave some panel when trimmed....no? This back plate...

Someone will correct me probably but I'm pretty sure its possible to fit 90's with the correct filter choice and maybe a little trim on the panel that will avoid you fitting bonnet pins.

I think the key difference is that the PM kit braces the strut top mounts by bolting to them and the strut top itself where as others available just bolt to the strut tops. Not going to notice much difference between both on a road car really. Iirc you can get PM brace kit for little more than...

No the one above the gearbox, the nut pulls through a washer and knacker's the rubber usually and some times the thread on the stud. Taking it off to check for wear is the best bet if your cars done a few miles. The one at top left doesn't do much except allow some adjustment of the engine...

Dogbone is robably the most important mount on the engine afaic when you see how much movement you get without one fitted. Your problem sounds like the upper g/box mount to me as my cup was the same when I bought it. My g/box had dropped 15mm on the mount but selecting gears was no problem...

Are you not mixing up Toyo T1-R's & R1-R's? I'm interested as I plan to run the later as my wet weather tyre.

Yeah I would think so given your description, Just check 15mm spacers aren't too big that the tyre then runs on the rear quarter panel ;)

IMO If your going for non adjustable top mounts then Pure Motorsport are your best bet as a strutbrace can be added later and new bearings are easily available, if you want some caster or camber adjustment, go with AST. You can buy eibach camber bolts to adjust camber as well for £25. So AST...

Beaten to it.

Its more likely that yours is catching and others aren't is because apart from your fecked bearing there is different stub axle's fitted between ph1,ph2,cup/trophy. So its basically like having different thickness spacers fitted to all them cars with dave88's stub's being the biggest iirc hence...

Nothing to add re problem but did you buy that ITB kit :p

I stand corrected about the gear choice lads :sleepy: busy day. Engines don't turn two ways though.

Sod's law

Sorry BMH but I couldn't not post to that comment. "Turn the engine backwards" Really? Must be the worlds first bi directional engine if so. There's an idler gear in in g/box that changes the driveshaft rotation from forward to backwards. Engine's are always one direction. P.s 5th or 6th gear...

Sounds like wheel balance.I bet they didn't balance your wheels by actually taking them off the car and re-weighting them. I'm guessing the shaking your getting is happening at certain speed/s and not at others? Generally I wouldn't trust a HIQ/Kwik fit mechy to fit a bike wheel, never mind...

There a short term thing for towing caravans or for something (heavy) like camping gear as you want. If you want a long term fix then replace the springs with original or stiffer but remember you will only be able to raise the car as much as the shockers are long. Quick way of checking is to...