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Looks god to me mate, just be sure to jubilee clip it on nice and tight especially if your heading northwards of 20psi

In all honesty I don't think there'd be that much in it 0-60 due to fwd traction troubles. In a roll on/in gear blast the 172 would be away. Oi Ben stop bragging LOL :)

Mine flew through no probs

551bhp actually.

Checked today mate and it only locks the passenger door.

Pretty sure, but I'll double check tomorrow.

Scott the renault RAID sytem won't allow you to lock the car doors with the key fob whilst the ignition is on and engine running.

How about plugging the fuel line back onto the fuel rail but leaving the electrical injector plugs disconnected? That way the fuel system will be sealed. As for the comp test just get the push and hold comp tester and get someone to turn it over while you hold it down?

Mate I have a 172 head with 14 good valves and two not so good, if you want me to pull a couple out and send them down drop me a pm. Steve

172 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/clio-172-inlet...d=p3286.c0.m14 225 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MEGANE-225-SPO...d=p3286.c0.m14

I don't think it will fit mate as I'm pretty sure the inlet port shapes in the cylinder head are quite different. The other thing will be the space as it sits on the front of the engine similar to ITB's so you might struggle to get it in. Obviously you could go down the short radiator route...

If your knowledge is really basic, your best to remove the spark plugs first (as there'l be no compression to turn against. Also remove the top engine mount and lower the engine on a trolley jack so you can access the 18mm crank/aux belt pulley. Then once you've rotated the engine several...

Mate have a read through this http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf But you have to remove the pulleys just to get the rocker cover off.

Danny means, anywhere before the throttle body but normally its, as previously mentioned, taken directly from the comp housing. The above looks fine as long as it's well sealed and secure as you could risk blowing it out if you run high boost.

I was lucky, the T3 housing on mine had a blanking grub screw fitted, which I removed and fitted a brass fitting in its place.

When my turbo conversion was first done the actuator hose ran to the vacuum outlet on the intake manifold (where the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose is connected to) The restrictor looks correct the dome part is designed to give a good seal when the braided hose union is fitted.

I had bits from pirtek to plumb in my water cooling and there a m14 thread but they were quite expensive even with a 25% discount!!! The oil lines were provided by ktec and tbh they maybe worth a call as with your cs discount they might be reasonable. As Danny says yours should be as a...

Mate tbh it sounds like an internal failure of some sort the fact the clutch is correctly disengaing drive to the wheels shows that thats OK. I've known of a JC5 box that was jammed in 1st no matter what position the stick was in, so it sounds the same, he just swapped to second hand box...

I'll wait for someone who's used a snap on one to confirm this. But to me it looks as though the tool is too shallow. The square (3/8th) hole is recessed at the back of the tensioner, and therefore the tool needs to stickout far enough so when it's in place there is enough clearance to...

"Fred got one to fit" LOL But on a serious note there is the feasibility of fitting a 182 head to the F4RT bottom end, this would allow you to run the ktec manifold, GT series turbo, aswell as allowing you to retain the original engine mount. The problems start when trying to squeeze the...

Good stuff mate, any snags drop me a pm. Steve

Gearboxes are different. 1*2 use a jc 5 gearbox 197 uses a TL4 So you'd need to do a full engine and box swap. Not sure if the head will fit but if you fit the full 197 engine (which will make your 172 ecu redundant you'll need the 197 wiring,ecu etc...). You may as well try and...

I use a 1/4 breaker bar (about 6" long) then use a step up adapter to 3/8 this moves the bar far enough out to clear the tensioner then stick a socket and a long extention bar on the breaker bar handle and rotate anti clockwise. Easy! Steve

Mate I'm with Fred and Danny, you need the official tools, the quality between them and laser etc... is night and day, and no matter how thorough you are, by just using the horse shoe shaped locking tool your timing will be out! Heres a downloadable manual for the f4r series, it's for the ph1...

Just a quick one on this raging cam debate, The last time I was at RStuning we done a run with the VVT disabled. This in theory gave the perfect setting with very little overlap. The result was a 10-15 bhp loss through out the rev range. The standard 1*2 cams in the dephased state are...

Literllay just pulled into the subaru garage as you were about to get in your car. My little brothers looking for a new car and wanted look at the 350z they've got there. Stick wi the ginge far better than blond imo.

Spotted a RB 197 in the shell garage at 14.30(ish) and had to do a double take. Could of sworn it was Bec, but I could only see this girl from the rear and she had ginger hair so rather than make a fool of my self I didn't shout across. (wimp) Do we now have a ginger whinging needster? Or...

Well I stand corrected then. Wonder why all the lads with meganes are swapping them over to get over 270bhp? I appreciate its all down to fuel pressure and application but I honestly don't think they'll hit 300bhp. What pressure did you flow test them at? just out of curiousity Steve

Are you sure there 480cc Andy? Am certain that there 390cc. All the lads with 225's trying to get near 300bhp are having to swap them for larger injectors to get anywhere it. Steve

Depends whether it's the cam seal on the gearbox end, in which case simply insert new ones, or if it's the ones behind the cam pulleys, cue the resetting of the timing as the pulleys will need to be removed. You may as well change the belt and tensioner to while your at it. Steve