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As above, a black 182, parked up outside the delight takeaway in leuchars village. Sporting a full set of silver 'cup' stickers (like the ones on new clio cup cars) had a cliosport.net sticker on it, though may not be an official one..

on the cat/downpipe to centre cection joint, use the 2 piece clamp. the U section of the clamp halves, when compressed will squeeze the 2 flanges together.

why not insure her on your clio, flog hers and use that money for a bigger car??

Sorry pal. the intermittant nature of the fault would lead me towards something electrical though. other than that, id find myself a decent local garage...

If its a 1.6 16v motor, chances are, one if the pencil coils is on its way out. Each spark plug has its own coil which is secured to the head with a torx screw, once the screw is off, you can pull the coil out of the head. To check the coils, undo all 4 screws that secure the coils to the head...

If youve got a car already and its insured in youre name, dont bother getting a new one till youve got your years NCB, I changed my car 8 months into a policy and lost the best part of a years no claims, just through impatience. youll find it easier to get quotes with a years ncb too.

is that the 2.0 turbo out of an s40??

But why go for a clio gt over the twingo rs????

What dont you get in a twingo that you do in the clio?? Surely if performance is your main criteria, they wouldnt matter as much as having nearly a quarter of a ton less for the engine to drag around.....

Might be worth having a look at the engine mounts, if theyre goosed, the movement of the engine could rattle the mani/downpipe off the body or subframe..

Id have matched the badges/bullets with the wheels tbh, but thats just me....

A stock Rsi... that keeps going past 125???? Off a cliff maybe! It would be interesting to hear your reasons for getting forged pistons though........

Maybe the valves took chunks out of the pistons when the cambelt went??? Cant see any real beneffit without head mods/cams etc......

!

Apparently you cant test for faulty coils by un plugging them, something to do with them sharing a voltage, un plugging one shags the other one... best bet is to undo the screws holding the coils in and remove them one at a time while the engine is running and holding the tip against the fuel...

This.

So is it possible to 'widetrack' a mk 1 using 1@2 parts to give even more width than a williams setup would???? What parts would this require??

Mk1 Rsi was a 1.8, 8v motor, body same as the rest of the range (excluding 16v and williams) Not sure about the suspension and brakes. Mk2 Rsi was a 1.6, 16v motor, body same as the rest of the range apart from the 172 and V6. It had half leather with leather trimmed steering wheel, 6 spoke...

If its a mk2 1.2, surely its easier to go for 406 coupe brembos..... Apparently you just need a spacer and some 172 discs??????

I dont touch corroded parts with bi-hex sockets anymore, always rounding off! Single hex is the future (along with a f**k off breaker bar):cool:

Not a clue pal, just putting the idea out there. iirc Mini-valver is the only guy on here to have put much effort into tuning one, but apparently had quite good results. As has been discussed before, the problem with tuning the k4m is the lack of parts available off the shelf and the lack of...

Makes you wonder why they didnt come with the mountune kit as standard..........

would the 197 engine not fit if you used a 172 gearbox on it??? similar idea to icarus' but youd only have to split the engine/gearbox, rather than rebuild the engine to raise the compression ratio?? Or maybe a cammed, mapped twingo k4m???

Hit it harder , with a bigger hammer till it comes off. Itll be corroded on to the hub, so tapping or gradual pressure wont shift it. Brute force and ignorance FTW!!

Aye, had a look at it, looks a good 'un, Ill e-mail him and see what hes looking for...

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1003148.htm?????/ doesnt look too bad......

No, I wouldnt, But in that sort of price bracket, I cant see much else, E30's seem a touch pricey still with a lot of them having their diffs welded for drifting, jap stuff seems to get chavved up rather than track prep'd. Not had a look at fords yet though.. Mk2 Xr2?? Hmmmm.....

but was that 3000 on consumables, or bringing the car up to spec for track work?? There seem to be a few FWD french hatches with most of the work done for around £2000. Leaving me with the cost of maintaining it/ replacing consumables!

Yeah, I know what you mean, Im looking at it as something to do at the weekends, as im getting fed up with pissing £200 up the wall every weekend!!! Id rather spend time under a car than go to a s**t nightclub full of chavs!! Im guessing at an initial outlay of around 1700-2000 for the car...

Yeah, Im thinking along the lines of a valver/hybrid (guessing most willys below 2k will be rotten sheds) or a 106/saxo, or 205 or 306(might be a bit pushed to get one for 2k...) The only reason I was looking at 5's on PH was because id just been on winstons thread, I remember seeing that car...