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Charging voltage is normal 14.4V. And so is the current draw approx 15A which compared well to the cup at 18A. Handy having 2 nearly identical cars! But drawing 15A causes the alternator to heat up like an oven and make noise like its drawing 150A, so it clearly has some issues!

The pulley spins freely, I'll get a multi-meter on it. Thanks

I'm guessing this isn't normal. Bit of smoke thrown in. Any one else had this. I guess it's time to buy a new one. All seems to be running fine, battery charging normally. It may be whining a bit more than usual.

There is a guide. I think the link is somewhere in the preceding 21 pages... Fitted mine today. Fairly straight forward on the cup, probably not much different on an air con model. Put a decat on at the same time so can't comment on the inlets alone. But it is much quicker :):) Just my 428s to...

I drove my 205GTI for 60k miles with a cone filter with a big hole in, in the days before I worried about such things.

What have you f**ked up with the old one? Can't you duck tape the old hose back together?

I've got a torque wrench and I've never bothered using on those bolts. Just common sense.

Mines (172 cup) done 133k (109k by me), including some motor sport. Serviced to the intervals. Only things that have gone wrong (not including consumable brake items): FBW throttle when it was only 2 years old Rear shocks x3 Exhaust - replaced with stainless 2x lambda sensors

Yeah I know. I only found out because that bolt came out when I was driving, alternator resting on the air con pipes for a good few miles before I realised. Small dent but they look OK. As long as you know though it is fine when doing the belt.

You can get the generic fault code readers off ebay for 30 odd quid. But you may need the Renault one for such a specific fault. Mine had similar problems before I bought it and the guy said it showed no faults with standard fault readers and he had to take it to the stealers in the end - but it...

I've heard a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter with a 1/4" ratchet fits in. You can't get a ratchet straight on as there isn't room next to the hole. I filed the side off a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but I had a little "bit" that came with my ratchet spanners that basically has a 19mm bolt on one end and 1/2"...

172 ph1 and 172 ph2 cup have speedo drive from gearbox. 172 ph2 at some point switched to the abs sensor, could have been all 172 ph2 not sure. You can tell by looking to see if the gearbox has a sensor.

Before (non RS) and after pics of the inlet to head end. The head already matches the gasket.

I used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with the side filed off. I have a little attachment that goes into a 1/2" square drive and has a 19mm bolt head on the end - there is not enough room for a proper ratchet. Then I get a spanner on that. I also found removing the bolt at the top of the alternator and...

Could this one be the manifold to cat gasket blowing, I've heard it sounds like this.

Don't worry it was already in pieces. Turned out the bolt that holds the alternator in place had come off. So the alternator had moved and released most of the belt tension so it was slipping. All sorted now.

When it's actually on the car I think you'll find all 3 marks line up. http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

+1

Mine's doing similar at the moment. I took the aux belt off and started the car without it and no noise. But all the pulleys and tensioners seem fine. I even have a slight burning smell and smoke from the aux belt, but still can't figure it out!

I'd say don't get the F1s on a 182, stick with the PE2s. At least not on the rear. Mine was noticeably more wobbly at speed. I had F1s on my 172 (195/45R16) and they were fine, but was disappointed on the 182 with the 205s.

It is on the front of the engine block, on the right hand side (when looking at it from front). It is on a little flat raised area right next to the gearbox, just above the sump. They corrode badly and can be very difficult to see.

Registration document is easy than getting the engine number from the car.

Here's a picture of my fronts, you can count the threads. Don't have a pick of the rears. It is very low. This is as setup by Curtis. Just experiment with the dampers. Stiff rear soft front = over steer, stiff front and soft rear = under steer AFAIK.

I was thinking maybe I could put the belt back on. Spray some WD40 on it and see if one of the pulleys stops?

You're right I'd expect them to get the brakes right. Have you given them a call to see what they say. The pads should be free to move in the holder thing the calliper bolts on to. The shims are like little metal clips at each end of the pad, on the front this is. Check all your breather hoses...

I often get 36-38mpg on the computer - but it is lying. If I measure the fuel used and miles done it is 33-34mpg. But if you see a drop then it is still a drop no matter how much the computer lies.

Your wheels should spin freely - at least 1 revolution from a good spin. They certainly should not be only just turnable. Is that front or back? I wonder if they left the shims in (on the front) that you use with the Renault pads - they can be a tight fit with after market pads.

Started the car the other day and it was making a funny noise, bit like the power steering pump working overtime. Also noticed if you run it for a while there is some smoke and burning smell. When you turn the engine off it stops dead as if one of the things on the aux belt is seized - or almost...

Seeing as it's running, you don't need to remove the plugs. You can just pull off the leads one at a time putting each one back before you try the next. If there is a spark problem on one cylinder removing that lead won't make any difference, the others will make the misfire worse. Still use...

They once told me I needed new rear pads and I'd only put them on the week before!