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Hi guys. My 172 now sounds like a Scooby.. I just ran a quick scan with a cheap reader and I'm getting p0141 fault code. I thought this was related to the rear lambda sensor which doesnt affect fueling? Was expecting to see an injector misfire fault code. I've checked the plugs and...

Yeh that's my other worry! I'm hoping you can get a bit of left right movement by rotating the centre section and back box?

I've bought all the bits I need to turn my stealth into a recessed. (Tip and a pms carbon surround) Can I get away with welding the tip on straight and adjusting the angle of the back box to the centre section? Or does the tip need welding on at an angle? There doesn't seem to be much scope...

I'm sure when I did it on my 182 I was able to change the clutch and release bearing without even touching the subframe. It was a few years ago now but I definatly didn't touch the subframe

I tightened mine, nothing crazy just nipped it up with a spanner, that was almost 2 years ago..

I run 18mm pms hubcentrics on the front and 10mm stub axel spacers on the rear. Looks great on standard 172 wheels. Can't say as I noticed any difference to the handling but I don't track the car or drive like a loon on the roads

Nope never had the rears lock up but I don't drive that hard to be fair. You got any better pics of where it's located on the axel?

Sorry to hijack. Is the compensator only there on a cup? I was having a look round on my 172 ph2 the other day and saw no such valve, just 2 brake lines from front to rear calipers with the flexy bits just after the rear beam.

Take it to a tyre place. My local one got mine off in minutes using a special tool that looked very similar to a tattoo gun lol

Looks amazing mate What sort of quarter mile times do these highly boosted clios make? I saw a boosted one at Santa pod last year and it was only making low 14's which ain't far off a standard 182 time really.

Loads on YouTube

I got mine fairly accurate using some string and some axel stands. Worth a shot just to get it driveable

Thanks mate. Yeh a decat would be my preferred option but it's a pain swapping it out on the 172 anyway so I'd rather a fit and forget solution. Yeh I've just replaced the fitting kit with a genuine Renault one as there was no tension in the springs but found the cat was buggered while I was...

My cat is rattling like a good en so think it will need replacing. I would prefer to decat it but I don't have a friendly mot guy at the moment so a cat is my only option. I've seen a company called cats2u do one for the 172 and it's only 119.99. Will it be absolute garbage and unlikely to...

I had a gsf cheap coilpack on my old 182 for years and it never caused me any bother.

Never used it but surely it can't be any worse than op com or puegoet planet which I have . Both are shocking

Sorted. Fogs now working and horn on the wheel. I chopped the grey plug and soldered the wires together. Think I may re do them using connectors incase I need to remove the wheel again.

So i bought a proper 172 ph 2 indicator stalk as some numpty previously had fitted a phase 1 with a horn but without foglights. I always wondered why my horn worked on the stalk and not on the wheel so today I whipped the airbag off to find this. Now my thoughts are that the 2 wires which are...

There's a guide in the guides section where you can do it for Pennys. All you need is a shorter belt and a ribbed idler pulley. Pms or cup would be better though as they get rid of the auto tensioner too.

I've just ordered a new manifold to cat fitting kit as mine is shot, both springs rattling and can't go any tighter due to been thread bound. It looks an absolute pig of a job. I was thinking it might be easier to unnbolt the manifold from the block to lower it down a bit to gain more access...

Checked the big fuse on the positive battery terminal?

Can you not just wedge the break pedal down with a stick between it and the seat before you take anything off, once you open the bleed nipple and let the pressurised fluid out nothing else should then drip out while the pedal is down

I've got powerflex black series wishbone bushes. Didn't notice a difference. Purple series dogbone, good option, takes alot of movement out the gearbox for better gear changes. Black series rack bushes, can't say as I noticed much difference as my original mounts weren't in bad shape anyway...

Well if the abs ring has come off the shaft my first thought would be that it's something to do with that

That's strange then. I'm gonna have to take my wheel off tomorow for a gander as the horn on the wheel doesn't work but the horn on stalk does work. Hopefully it's just not plugged in

Does this mean a replacement squib also? I'm bidding on a phase 2 stalk now to get my foglights back, but does this mean I'll need a phase 2 squib to move the horn back to the wheel?

Whats The reason behind buying a phase 1 stalk? My 172 seems to have one on as the horn is on the stalk and not on the wheel, but it only has 1 fog light selection so my front fogs done work. I'd happily swap it for a phase 2 stalk ..

Sealtbelt bolts are notoriously bad for earthing, no idea why but most of the car audio forums im on say to stay well away and if possible always drill a hole and sand the paintwork to ensure a perfect ground

check for voltage on the wires a bit further down. also take out both clusters and give all the contacts and earths a good clean

Rear sills don't tend to bend as the weight is all up front so should be fine. I've used the rear sills loads of times when I can't use the rear beam and never bent one