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I think the best way to check the cam belt is to remove the top engine mounting. You need to support the engine from underneath to do this. Then you can turn the belt round for inspection using a socket on the crank pulley. So wheel off and liners out of the way as well.

AFAIK If you go into auto that takes control of the AC and will turn it on and off as necessary. Maybe it was just a hot day when you did it?

Pull it towards the front? That Renault manual going about has you pushing towards the back? Anyone know which way for sure?

Bizarrely I took a picture of mine last night, but I won't be home for a couple of days. I'll post it Saturday if no one else does it for you. If I didn't already know the number I wouldn't have been able to read it. It will probably look like a bit of corrosion in a vertical line on a flat...

From the manual Max. engine speeds for a coolant temperature < 75°C 6,700 rpm for a coolant temperature > 75°C in 1st or 2nd gear 7,200 rpm for a coolant temperature > 75°C in 3rd, 4th or 5th speed 7,000 rpm

This is on a 182 FF. I've removed bumper and slam panel. I can see the tensioner. It has a torx type bolt at the top and bottom and a square hole at the bottom next to the bottom torx bolt. Which one of these releases the tension? Can I just remove one of the torx bolts and get it off that...

Looking into the engine bay from the front. It is on the right hand front of the engine block low down. It is stamped on the block and difficult to read.

I think these things can work. But the risk is if you have a problem and add it then so much stuff can be freed up that things get blocked even worse. I know someone this happened to (redex and fuel injectors). If it ain't broke don't use and if it is broke it's probably too late to use it :-)...

I wasn't dreaming after all http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1560&pic=3

Are you after the manifold as well? Or just the twin exit pipes? I have a vague recollection I saw a 172 back box that gave you twin pipes like a 182 and went round the spare wheel well. Can't remember where, I may have dreamt it.

Ktec and GDI do kits. I think the kit is 2600 from Ktec, look at my link above. I don't think that is fitted.

Sean, it'd be interesting to know if your before inlets have the RS stamp.

Pads are easy to do your self if you are that way inclined. From Renault I think you are talking 50 front and 30 rear for the pads themselves, can be got cheaper or more expensive but you pretty much get what you pay for. Most people on here like Ferrodo DS2500 on the front, I can recommend...

Or maybe "bodies" gives a better idea. http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2478&pic=2

Surely it should have been put where you can easily see it though. When I'm doing those sort of revs I don't normally have time to casually glance down to the bottom right hand corner of my dials. Although after 4 years I do now seem to be able to see it without actually looking at it! It comes...

To get 200 bhp you're looking at ITBs or a whole range of internal and external engine mods. Check out this thread http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=379120 sounds like he's opted for 182 exhaust manifold, decat, 182 inlet manifolds matched, a 182 head and cams. He's hoping for...

Does it have service history? I might be interested.

Just 4 10mm bolts. You could maybe do it with the car not on the jack even. I would not even put my little finger under the car if it was on the Reno jack. I heard someone call it the widow maker the other day lol! You could take a wheel off and put that under the car so it couldn't fall on...

Do you use an air filter with ITBs? Whenever I see a picture the trumpets are always exposed - is this just for show and they put a filter on to drive it?

Technical manual http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Take it off and see if it moves all the way in and out. It is only 1 bolt and 1 nut.

Mine once did this because the shock had kind of seized. The shock would only go in a couple of inches and then stop. No oil visible outside. Behaved the same as when all the oil came out. Rear end bounced wide round the bends.

Well I tried posting and mentioning it was a wiper in the title but no f**ker read it so I went for the mystery option lol ;) Angle grinder is rapidly becoming the most likely option!

My rear wiper is stuck on. I have applied WD40 in copious amounts over time. I have a wiper puller and it still won't budge? Any ideas?

No that's not it. Follow that pipe in the picture back to where it leaves the suspension arm (do it on the passenger side). Where the pipe leaves the arm there is another flexible hose and the drivers side one is there as well. These are the ones to replace with the braided lines. Here's a...

I thought it was just the door glass that was lighter?

Hi I was looking at a clio the other day with a viper alarm installed. I was wondering how this would interact with the original immobiliser and alarm. Where are the originals in the car? Are the original immobiliser and alarm in the same box? Is the new alarm likely to stop the original...

I think you are looking at the wrong pipe. You need to change the two pipes that are next to each other where the hoses leave the suspension arm and attach to the body. The crimped one is not the one to change as it doesn't flex. Though I did wonder why it is like that myself. It is not the...

Where do you get it for 23 quid then? You should try some flush type stuff with the next change if its been neglected, should help get some of the sh1t out.

Are they front rear split or diagonal? For some reason I think they're front rear. Thanks