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ok, it's foggy out at the minute (well, it is here anyway), but they're little more than cosmetic for most of the year. i keep meaning to buy some blanks, cut them out, and fit decent driving lamps - could give that a go

they're American and came out of the hot rodding scene; wasn't long before they made it over here and were being fitted to Cortinas and Chavettes

they're basically bullet silencers, which is why they're so noisy no sure when they first turned up - 60s/70s? sound great on V8s; i remember a mate who had a SD1 with a pair on

i guess it depends upon how long the boot's been off and how long/where the car's been driven since. if it's not been off long and you've not been driving over the beach or anything like that, you'd probably get away with wiping it out and repacking it. once it's free of the hub and you've...

guess it depends upon how thoroughly the CVJ was cleaned; ideally, you'd be wanting it off the shaft and in a parts washing machine, but they may have decided it didn't appear too mucky and just wiped it out whilst it was still in-situ. could attempt to check for play in the wheel bearing by...

given mention of the loose boot, grit in the CV could be another potential

can you not knock the CV off the end of the shaft to fit a boot, or use a rubber boot and stretch it on with one of those cone tools?

haven't done one but wouldn't have thought you'd be charged much more than a couple of hours labour - ? did Renault quote you for a driveshaft or something?

don't think mine's bad at all but they're not a patch on contemporary VWs (for example), but no surprise there. having come from an older Peugeot, the thing that i've noticed is that some of the wearing parts seem to have a dubious service life, even in comparison with another French...

you just sort of need to arrange yourself and the ratchet so that you can comfortably hold the key over the nut and also get some leverage into it - it must just be a matter of enough leverage if you smear the thread and the shoulder of the bolts in copper grease as you put them back in, that...

trying to get what's left of the nipple out of the caliper may be real nause. should be able to get bleed screws over the counter but ideally want to be taking the one from the other side to be sure you're getting an identical screw - needs to be the right threaded length as well as thread

sounds like the standard Renault locking key; should be OK. are you holding the key on over the nut as you lever the ratchet with your other hand?

are the Ph1 mounts the same as the Ph2s? a set of Ph2 mounts is about £130ish (depends where you buy them from); if your old ones are shot, new ones will feel much better - it just reduces the amount of shunting around that the engine does (esp. whilst changing gear)

don't worry about what some others might think sounds as though you need a length of pipe to slip over the ratchet handle for leverage (is your trolley jack handle hollow?)

there's no need to dismantle the caliper

no need to jack it up if you use an old oil bottle with the side cut out

you probably can't get enough torque into the screwdriver - use a socket

on reflection, i guess the front belts are also going to have charges to retract the diagonal, whereas that in the clip must be for the lap portion of the belt. ah well

that was quick! thanks a lot for that; does seem that new reels are going to be the simplest answer ed. thinking on, if that's the rear belt, may be there isn't a second charge in the front system (as you say); will have a look at some point anyway apols to tim124 for my interruption

hopefully fairly straight forward then

top man; that'd be really handy. i've fiddled with older reels before but have no idea what the insides of a pre-tensioned one might look like. do you know where the pyro-charge is? might be a consideration whilst dismantling it

mine's also doing this and it's annoying. i was going to take the reel off at some point and have a look so see if it's possible to dismantle and adjust it. wondering if the retraction mechanism is a spiral spring and if it might be possible to put another turn on it to increase its tension...

try fiddling with the connector block as they can be unreliable could take it off, clean connectors and spray some white grease/vaseline in there; see if that helps

as above, think there's an element of luck in buying s/h. had a fair amount of trouble with mine but, having been through and sorted it all (touch wood), it doesn't seem to have been unreliable of late

whilst you've got the wheels off, i'd just quickly check for evidence of any fluid leaks from the caliper piston seal/bleed nipple/hose/pipe and check the slider boots for condition/location not much you can do to check the brakes really

visually, there's a minimum thickness to check for (about 22mm) and you need to check for cracks and excessive scoring/ridging

was sort of (!) thinking this yesterday as i went for a drive with a mate and swapped with his Impreza a few times (only a T2000) - was actually glad to get back in the Clio

if the rear box is the sleeve-fit type, the clamp might have loosened (allowing the rear box to turn in the centre section pipe and appear to droop)

possibly the engine mounts? check it out on search - lots of info and some potential quick fixes

thanks; i don't think it's something i'd be looking to do for a little while but, not being happy with the standard mounts, it's something i'd like to try i guess forum reports with opinion on the difference will filter through, but do you have an otherwise standard demonstrator?