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the few times i've done it it's been the other way round - bugger to get off, easy to put back on
don't think there are any easy solutions - just got to persevere and try different spanners. ended up manually winding the last ones off with an A/F ring spanner as they were rounded - just time...
it does; there's a switch beneath the door striker latch in the b-pillar. they complete the circuit by going to ground as the door opens - not sure what else could be up (fuses, etc?) but i'd start by looking at the switches
can't help with your interior light, but the mileage resetting is apparently a common symptom of a battery that's on the way out (think mine lasted a few months before it eventually died) - probably best to renew it before it lets you down
not sure about them, although i might say that as i'm fairly comfortable looking over cars like this myself
i think you get a HPI check in with the inspection though (?), which is handy
last time i had one done (fair old while ago now), the guy was quite thorough and it was worth doing imo...
Re: Best Hot Hatch of all time?
there are loads and loads! Farina's a good spot
i guess the term was first coined by the Mk1 Golf but, if you exclude everything pre-Golf, you kill off some of the favourites (Alfasud, Sunbeam, etc)
it's a can'o'worms for sure and is only a bit of fun at...
Re: Best Hot Hatch of all time?
this is the problem with the title 'hot hatch' - it's a bit misleading as you tend to exclude cars that should, perhaps, be considered (just because they don't have a hatchback) and include some that shouldn't (like the Integrale)
if you take it literally (ie...
Re: Best Hot Hatch of all time?
don't know if there were others but the factory supported these apparently (only three made): http://www.motorbase.com/classifieds/viewad.ehtml?a=740205440;
W&P and Radford were coachbuilders/tuners, famous for their conversions in the 60's. the mini's a...
not sure mate. it's a thinking cap job - you'd need to take a good look at what's behind the bumper. when i had a look, i thought it might be easiest to fabricate some sort of frame that uses the existing bracketry that's moulded into the bumper.
whatever you come up with needs to allow for...
is there actually room for the lamps between the OE fog brackets that are moulded into the bumper?
if there is, you'd have to fabricate some sort of framework that allows you to bolt the lamps to the frame and the frame to the OE brackets
Re: Best Hot Hatch of all time?
interesting to see where the votes are building up already. i'd rather have voted for the Mk2 16v Golf than the Mk1 and the Lancia's a bit of a dream car in reality, so i went with the 205 (although am slightly biased!)
i think the Ph2 lamp mounting is different
spotted your other thread about your taking the bumper off the other day - could you may be take some piccies of what you come up with? would be dead handy
may be wrong but didn't think angel eyes had internal beam adjustment (unlike the OE...
they're widely available mailorder and some motorfactors might keep them. they're traditionally just a glass packed straight through bullet silencer, hence loudness.
ah, right - mani->cat joint's definitely a two man job but adjusting the backbox should be a simple one man job providing paste wasn't used and it's not too difficult to twist in the system pipe
^ try slackening the backbox -> system clamp and twisting the back box so that it's tucked up as far as it'll go. the clamp needs to be v tight - could try a Mikalor/Norma clamp if you're currently using a u-bolt clamp and still have bother
bought mine (mk2) second hand and have been perfectly happy with it - good materials and construction, good and easy fit imo (any tailpipe drooping will just be a loose backbox clamp), sounds pleasant and isn't at all intrusive (not with the cat on anyway - v intrusive with a decat pipe)
i bought some lamps with 100mm lenses a little while ago and ended up taking them back as there was no way they could be made to fit without butchering the bumper.
the OE lamps are 90x100mm, as is the hole in the detachable lamp surround; the 100mm lens could have been made to fit this...
the roll bar is really close to the subframe on these normally i think. could try renewing the bushes - the outer ones aren't as easy to do as they could be (although easier than the inners) and are apparently more likely to cause probs than the inners
does sound like the servo (it's normal). it should only ever stop hissing once you've exhausted the vacuum (with the engine off).
try this: immediately after having turned off the engine, pump the brake pedal half a dozen times - you should initially hear it hiss with every pump and then...
sounds as though you'll lose some as you disconnect it anyway. bleeding's probably just a case of leaving the cap off the reservoir and (with engine running), moving the rack from lock to lock until you've no more air appearing in the reservoir
i'm not sure how accessible it might be with the dash in place, but have a look to see if the feed to the fuse board is at all accessible and test that. if it's getting voltage, i'm guessing you've a problem with the fuse board; if not, you're back to battery earth and the positive as it travels...