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sorry to add to this, but can i ask where those who have expressed an interest in the inlets only stand?
there are well over 20 now (across both group buys) - are we being asked for £138 (obviously no point) or £100?
ta
i guess you'd need to clarify with the garage to be sure but that joint's a common problem and it does sound more likely than not that it's what they were referring to
lol. there are bolts in the kit which i suppose look a little like pins - might be what they were referring to
the kit's about £40 from Renault but KTEC do a pattern one for about £20, here: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2334
the springs are stood on end at the top of the photo
won't feel much different - just a slightly firmer pedal. they're more of a track orientated mod - more consistent in operation than rubber hoses once they're v hot
they're probably all much of a muchness; wouldn't be too worried about 'best make'
Jam-Sport Inlet group buy
1. Jamesstone
2. Papalaz
3. fossie (exchange and depending when it runs till)
4. Henry (depending upon exchange charge, final numbers and timescales)
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Inlets and Gaskets:
1.Tullyvernon (if enough people, if not just the inlets)
2. Curley ( fitted )...
AUX is due at 36k/5years, cambelt at 72k/5years
only suggested thinking about the cambelt as the AUX belt has to come off to fit it - if you're anywhere near the cambelt interval, may as well bite the bullet and have both done at the same time
going to be best to shop around your local indie...
what does the service book say?
36k is detailed in the book but is the 12k interval plus the AUX belt and some other bobbins. how old is car as cambelt is also due after 72k/5yr and it may be as well to do it at same time as AUX
some of the OE inlets are better than others (try searching for the RS inlet - could check to see if your car is fitted with one) but the ports/runners are smaller than the ports in the head
RS Tuner is a DIY mapping affair
really depends upon personal pref as some will enjoy mods that...
in a similar boat to you and would go for inlets and a custom map if i had the cash spare
i'd probably also change the exhaust system, if only because the std system will eventually drop off from rot
suggested gains for these bolt on bits aren't half bad for an engine that's already in a...
was thinking that you could almost afford the thin strip of plastic that's screwed along the bottom of the front bumper for that..
would like one of these models but not prepared to pay that much!
not necessarily as it also depends upon how much wear you have in the other mounts and, also, how the unit is aligned in the mounts (have a look on search as there's info on slackening the four top mount bolts and pulling the engine forward, which can help a lot)
not too difficult to fit...
may be the system's sludged up and blocking flow to the heater matrix?
may as well start by flushing it through and renewing the coolant - cheapest first option
don't know if this has already been posted, but there's a black Weissman V10 in this months EVO - looks absolutely gorgeous
can't find a black one, only white
mine's showing normal operating temp on the gauge at the mo, although today's a good 10deg warmer than it has been lately
your temp will (eventually) rise whilst reversing as you've no air flowing over the rad
this might be difficult to tell, but are the top/bottom rad hoses as consistently...
problems with incorrect tracking can show up in a few ways and it's worth doing it first as it's the cheapest one to cross off the list (although you'll end up having to do it again if you dismantle and renew any of the suspension components)
don't worry. the nipple is the plunger of the switch - there'll be an electrical contact on the base of the plunger and, as the door is shut, the plunger is pushed in, breaking the contact. as you open the door, the plunger returns, making contact and completing the circuit.
i've not had them...