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i'd try grips as well but isn't there some sort of spring clip that surrounds the union and prevents you doing that? can you remove the caliper, unscrew it from the hose and then unscrew the hose from the solid line union? (if that makes sense)

1. Jamesstone 2. Papalaz 3. fossie (exchange and depending when it runs till) 4. Henry PAID IN FULL 5. Paulo (no exchange, delivery to Portugal, Madeira island) 6. Russ_0016 (Sent my inlets + PAID IN FULL!) 7. 8. 9. 10. Jam-Sport Inlets and Gaskets: 1.Tullyvernon (if enough people, if not just...

hope it's not off the road for too long :)

also - i'm assuming yours is ABS; and i've no idea how the pipes are routed if they differ from the Cup

if it runs to the m/c from the n/s, it'll actually be a fairly long pipe (was thinking of the o/s for some reason) and it might be awkward to get in there - depends what's in the way. they run behind the bulkhead sound-deadening, which'll have to come off for starters i hesitate to say this...

can sympathise - nause when stuff like this goes wrong think those are your two options though - need to spend a little time checking it out before going for whichever

i wasn't sure but apparently you can flare steel lines DIY; there's a brief guide here: http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm i'd take the old union with you (along with the hose) to a Motorfactor to be sure you get the right union just need the right gear then (as...

this is only a suggestion as i can't recall exactly how this is configured, but could you cut the flare off the end of the pipe, slide a new union over it and use a flaring tool to refinish the end of the pipe? i've only ever done this with copper lines (are the original lines steel?)

it can be difficult to be sure without disconnecting them from the hubs. that said, if they're properly shot, you should be able to feel any play in them by hand whilst they're still connected. clearest way is to disconnect them and check that there's no up and down movement of the pin in the cup

love driving in France; as said, some of the roads are lovely - really do put ours to shame, they're really well maintained they're not as busy as UK roads although they'll still tailgate you, even if you're the only two cars on the road:S it's odd that their road deaths are twice ours...

there's an advert for it in the for sale section but, from memory, i think it's done 20k and has been on the car for less than 18 months - i'd say it has a good 2 years left in it yet

i've a used genuine Renault box for sale at the moment; looking for about £40; plenty of life left in it if that's of any interest

ATE Blue's available from EuroCarParts for £13/litre

i'd read on here that you needed a litre, but mine seems to have changed fine at around half a litre (using ATE Blue, so i could see what was going on)

any news? :D

Loctite 5920

are they Ford locking nuts and might they have been on the car from new? some manufacturers/dealers might keep a record of the key code if they were fitted for the original buyer. could ask anyway

for £900, it'd chuffing well better be a metallic one!

hopefully be 'OK' (?!) if you're keeping the cat - mine (twin box) wasn't nice with decat

have you had it on before and do you have a decat? interested in how noisy it'd be with a decat and just the back box; predicting serious anguish!

disconnect them from the hubs to check for play in the pins to be sure before renewing them. you'll be able to pull them up and down in the cups if they're shot

watching that open, he sort of reminded me of David Attenborough, although his punctuation is much quicker always liked Chris Goffey and that other chap (William Woolard?)

what's the box that you're looking at from? the smaller engined cars are going to have different gear ratios

topics on search suggest that it's 2"

the back box pipe is 54mm O/D although can't remember if the system sleeves over or in (probably over)

hmmm.. tyre wear OK that you've noticed? could have bent something. might also be worth checking that everything's still tight. when i had my rack reconditioned, i noticed that the column pinch bolt was bent and had stripped a thread (:eek:) - that was causing a knocking noise on lock as...

was just wondering if the height of the column has anything to do with it - plastics on the column rubbing against those on the dash? there'll be bearings inbetween the inner and outer parts of the column as well - few things it could be think you'd probably need to take it to someone to...

they come off in the wash. wouldn't bother supergluing as you'll be left with damaged paintwork if it comes off again just buy some new ones from Renault; about £12 for a single set of C-U-P and 1-7-2 stickers

the nut itself shouldn't be loose but it's not a problem if the rubber covered disc can be moved independently that's your suspension top mount by the way

does adjusting the height of the column affect it? there's a universal joint in the column which could be involved