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i've found that disconnecting the upper air feed from the std air box immediately loses you about 10% of your mpg (OBC readings). not sure if that's down to the reduction in cold air flow or bypassing of the acoustic valve (which you'd lose with an aftermarket filter box)

no. you'll only break it, trying to get it into third from second quickly enough to be able to keep up.

don't fancy the sound of that:dead: is there really that little room around the back box and could you not just jack up the rear to remove the back box first?

haven't changed the Clio's exhaust yet (got it to do next week) but it doesn't look out of the ordinary to me. something along these lines: put the front up on stands and remove the back box first, then the centre section (which is still supported by a mounting rubber). don't know if the cat...

it's about £70 if you buy the parts (from Renault) and do it yourself (!) probably do it for little more than half that if you used a cheaper oil (that does exclude the belt though)

it's probably a factor; i used to brake fairly late and hard (ie. briefly) in the 205; it's also a (marginally) lighter car

don't know why but there seems to be massive variation (from all sorts of sources) about Greenstuffs. not tried any on the Clio but had several sets on my last car (205 - due to the mileage i did in it - not premature pad wear) and i really liked them. they stood up very well to hard use on...

i think these are for the Ph2 - as Dicky's

£50 for the air box; is that a new part or s/h?

you might be lucky and find that removing (disturbing) them frees the mechanism. interia reel belts can be sensitive to correct alignment (in their mountings) and can lock if they're not as they should be. also worth checking that whatever they're mounted to isn't bent (?) - although does seem...

^ that's what i need to know - thanks a lot for the reassurance

thanks all:) i've a new exhaust coming next week so may as well take it off the road for a few days to do it all. the rack's got to come off to be reconditioned (£150 - could have been worse); seals can't be done in-situ it turns out - was spun a yarn there:rolleyes:

it sounds as though the inertia reels have locked; you could try removing the units to see if that releases them. failing that, i'd try picking some up from a scrap yard (shudder to think how much Renault would want) - apart from in the colour, i guess they're the same in all contemporary Clios - ?

^thanks for that. i think i'm just going to have to dive in and see where Haynes leads me

have spent a little time looking into this today and now have a clearer idea of what i think i'm going to have to do could someone please just quickly confirm if Haynes (section 10.23) adequately explains the hydraulic rack removal procedure for a 172 Cup though - would help me out. ta

from search: 172 5.3 mph/thousand rpm 8.7 mph/thousand rpm 12.3 mph/thousand rpm 15.8 mph/thousand rpm 20.4 mph/thousand rpm

any of them will likely just let you turn up and put it up on a ramp - would allow you to let them show you where it's blowing from. most will probably try and sell you a new exhuast section but you can just say you need to think about it and then nip off. it used to be that you couldn't buy...

as you say - depends upon the staff at whichever outfit you take it to. also depends upon what's up with it; you can fix most things if you put the effort into it but they may be more inclined to suggest you need a new box if, for example, it's leaking from a corroded pipe weld - etc

? i've had a look at the Haynes manual and the removal/bleeding procedure seems straight-forward enough. the manual obv. doesn't cover the RS models though - can anyone confirm if the job differs from Haynes for them? thanks

looking for help, again.. i've a leak from the seals in the O/S gaiter - someone has told me that they can repair this in-situ for about £100 and someone else has told me that they know of no reputable PAS specialist who can do this - ? anyone any experience? also, is replacing the rack a...

:D more trouble than it's worth! took me ages to load up PS so that i could just spray paint over the plate - then my machine crashed as i can't deal with PS.. it is genuine(ly awful)

how about two in the middle as well - a row of six?

ok, i'm trolling, but whose is this?: Shot at 2008-07-20

i don't think mine's been hugely unreliable (in the sense that it has left me stranded - although the gearbox did seize whilst i was out and the battery also failed on me away from home..) but - a lot of parts seem to have a disappointing service life. there are also a lot of people who...

think you're dead right there . chris106gti, spotted that you were asking earlier which systems are available. the three off-the-shelf ones i've read mentioned on here are from GDI, KTEC and Yozzasport. they're all round-about the £350 mark; don't know about the others, but the KTEC apparently...

build quality does vary a lot and some i've had in the past (Magnex..) have been much poorer than others (Piper). i think it's down to the individual manufacturer and isn't necessarily directly related to the money you pay. at the moment, i'm hoping for a second-hand KTEC.

have a look underneath the car at either wheel - it should be obvious if you've lost a cable. you'll either be missing the nipple on the end of the cable or the cable will have snapped within the outer sleeve somewhere along its length - check by pulling on the nipple with a pair of pliers

they do and it varies a lot. £5 upwards in my experience (unless you know the fitter, of course)

you're not going to wipe your paint off with petrol; it's common to see discolouration of paintwork around filler caps due to neglect (it polishes out) but you don't ever see bare metal. it must be that the lacquer protects. use tar remover if you're worried - although i would have thought...

it's unlikely you'll notice any difference in driving the car afterwards unless the inner bushes are also shot. balljoint wear (unless it's really bad) generally just gives you a clonk and doesn't really affect the drive