Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
could try wrapping rag around the valve stem whilst using pliers. i'd check the pressures regularly for a little while too (as you've been turning the valve in the wheel)
wasn't thinking of you, Mark (:) )
.
also wouldn't mind experiencing a Trophy; do the dampers make it feel much different on road or do you really need a track to appreciate them?
i find it hard work having to be anally careful about what i type on here for fear of contributing to the upset of the overly-sensitive. it'd be much easier for all if some didn't assume that what someone has typed is finite and then over-react in reply
most probably appreciate that they can be serviced but, if they do actually require replacement, you're looking at having to spend a significant proportion of the value of the car
if you join-up, you can access a number of guides that list (some) of the things to check for.
best quick advice is to take your time and find a car that's not had loads of owners and has been properly looked after (and not necessarily by Renault). buying a problem car can cost a lot of...
have always thought that, too. serious expense if you have any trouble with them - just for two dampers:dapprove:
of the models in the 172/182 range, i think the 172 Cup and the Trophy will be most remembered in years to come, but for different reasons. Renault put quite a lot into lightening...
it's a power steering problem.
are you losing any fluid that you've noticed?
if not, there's apparently an electrical sensor that costs around £50 and could well be at fault. i don't fully understand but am guessing that it regulates the revs at idle to compensate for the load that the PAS...
gearbox and battery have failed on me; currently replacing some worn bits, too - but wouldn't judge those as 'failures'. reckon i've spent about £1700 on this lot in the last year.
what's happened to yours though? four engines and £9k - that sucks:dead:
you don't have to spend on premium tyres - a lot of the mid-priced brands are very good and aren't really far off; some are even better than the premiums (edit. subjectively). just avoid the real cheapies
Camacs?
they're just a really cheap tyre - lots of different cheap brands about. i don't even know if they offer a RS Clio size.
had some on the back of a previous car and they were easily the worst tyre i've ever used; things may have changed though
ed. it was grip that was the problem btw
it's a risk but i guess it's as you've been advised - it depends upon the Officer's attitude if you're spotted and stopped. i've driven to local garages without bumpers (or even bonnets) before
went round to see a mate yesterday who'd borrowed some car polish from me; on one spot (which he was concentrating on improving) he has managed to remove both his clear coat and the colour coat (exposing primer:dead:) - it's a '54 Honda and they apparently have thin paint but i was surprised he...
if the inner bushes are OK and you only need to replace the balljoint, why spend £50 on a new arm when you can buy a balljoint for less than a tenner? i know what i'll be doing once mine start knocking.
can you buy the bushes separately btw?
surely you can buy individual coolant hoses - ?!
another mega-expensive job-to-be for lots of people, otherwise:dapprove:
is the pipe formed; could you just use off the shelf hose to come up with something yourself?
not a lot of help; sorry
ordered a back box mount from CES late Friday afternoon and it arrived today. they told me they didn't keep the middle one though - ?
the mount was £8 and the delivery was £7 (next day delivery - didn't ask for it; might be worth enquiring if you don't need it in a rush). quality seems fine...
took the rack off today and thought i'd post for the benefit of future searchers as there's very little that i could find about this on search:
as suggested, removal is exactly as Haynes - there's actually loads of room to be removing the rack (ie. absolutely no need to drop subframe) but the...
could be a number of things - steering rack loose, rack mounting bushes worn, bottom arm balljoints; quite a few more possibilities
does it do it whilst the car is stationary and you move from lock to lock? if so, you could have someone do that whilst you *carefully* (don't want to crush your...
the front strut top mounts are the favourite culprit for creaking on full lock and are probably the 'easiest' of the suspension rubbers to be replacing so i'd start by doing those. you can buy the bearing races and the rubber donuts from EuroCarParts for about £60 for a car set.
the top...
it's pretty easy to pick up - just takes a little time and experimentation. try those poly stripping discs to clean the work faces - they make v light work of exposing clean metal even if it's badly corroded