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Found bosch lambda sensors for £35 each, so I've ordered them. Prob not a bad call to change them regardless, and as you said, it may be the source of the issue

Thanks Steve....I'll give that a bash!

The initial sound you hear in the vid is the carbon canister, but the rest, and the continuous whining noise is 100% coming from the TB

The idle levels out after 30 seconds or so, but when you dab the throttle it bogs down, almost stalls, then picks up. Combined with awful noise the TB is making, I'm hoping its gonna be an easy fix! I've got a basic scan tool that threw up a p0130 but after clearing it, it's not come back...

So.....I think the TB may be the issue?!

I've used wrap around heat shielding on my silicon pipe. Looks like it'll do the job. Got loads left over if ya want some to use on your silicon pipe? Happy to put a length of it in the post to you 😀

I'll get my mates machine hooked up....its a couple of grands worth, so I'd like to think it'll be able to hook into everything. Compression test will be done tomorrow. I misplaced my compression tester so didn't get a chance to test it the last few days. Engine was running fine before...

Clip? I've got a friend who has an all singing all dancing diagnostics machine? Anything in particular I should look at?

It's had the EFI turbo ecu flash (which will need a tweak due to a slightly larger turbo) Idle does smooth out the warmer it gets, but its the hesitation/bogging and the occasional mini back fires (for want of a better word) that's got me scratching my head.

Hi All, Hoping someone can suggest areas to look at with my newly converted 172 turbo. Long story short, the engine bent the intake valves a year ago so I decided to rebuild the head, and reinstalled prior to doing the turbo conversion. New valves were professionally fitted and seated with a...

I think I know the answer, but after confirmation. Just reinstalled my engine after a turbo conversion and on start up, it's running rough as a badgers arse, and after a little drive it feels very much like its running on 3 cylinders. So after a bit of headscratching and looking, I spotted no.4...

So, I've just ordered a hose heat protection wrap around blanket thing. That should fix it

I've used Engine Dynamics oil return and though the engine isn't in yet......it does look like it may run pretty close to the down pipe! I'm tempted to wrap the pipe to give some protection

I ported my wastegate out a fair bit: Should stop boost spikes with luck. SteveC put me on the right lines with the oil feed. I got a 1 meter Mamba oil line for 27 quid and an adapter £13. All fitted with no dramas: I've got the Engine Dynamics oil drain kit, which tbh you coukd source...

No worries, I think I'll grab this one I found 😄

I could, but I'd feel happier with a purpose built one lol. You have one fitted, or one you'd just love to sell on to me? 😉🤣

I've been after a mk1 172 fuel pump assembly for my turbo conversion and think I may have found one but hoping someone can confirm, as the ad is a bit generic: Renault Clio Sport 172/182 2001-2006 Fuel Pump 8200159254 Here's the pics. This looks like a feed and return to me. TIA 😁

Ah thanks Steve, that's good to hear that the lag isn't too awful, although mine is a bit of a larger turbo so I'd guess boost may come in a little later than yours, but we will see! Agreed on tbe 25s running out of puff, though if I'd been able to lay my hands on one for reasonable money it...

I got it from Maxspeedingrods after watching an independent review on them (worth a watch) It's got a claimed exducer size of 71mm over the 60mm on the gt2860, which could make it a bit more laggy, but I guess I'll find out once it's all bolted in and running and tbh, I've not measured it. It's...

Looks good Steve! Can I ask what size turbo you're using? I've got a Churbo which is a gt2871 replica which I have concerns may be a bit laggy. Spoke to Chris at EFI who confirms it's usable, but don't expect boost much before 4000rpm. I know you got a churbo too, so I'd be interested to...

I was looking at doing a canister delete and just blocking the pipe from the rocker plenum tbh

Mmm I'm confused about the carbon canister. That's the pipe that comes from the rocker cover top right? That shouldn't be pressurised 🤔

Lookscreally good and glad to see it's gone really well! A quick Q if I may....did you put any one way valves anywhere? I've read quite a bit on various conversations and seen one way valves mentioned for the carbon canister and another for the break servo? Getting there with my own...

16 INA roller finger followers arrived today from Trodos in Latvia. Genuine INA. In the uk I was looking £200+ These were £76 delivered! Second time I've used them now and defo recommended 👌

Ah many thanks. I've used Trodo before as they were recommended on here for genuine injectors. They're definitely quoting as genuine INA. I'll get them ordered Cheers!!

I need to replace all my followers and having looked on Trodo's website, they have INA finger followers but for the engine code CBOM which I believe is the phase one engine. They're quoting (amongst many others) as fitting these F4R engines. One is the 182 and the other a phase 1 172 Now...

Worth a watch: a cheap mod to reduce your actuator spring pressure. It's a bit chip shop for my liking lol, but it seems to work and cheaper than fitting an adjustable actuator.

Picture paints a thousand words and all that. Thats what I mean by half a hole (diameter) of preloaded.

Half a hole refers to the hole on tbe end of the actuator arm. You pop it off and wind it in until the hole only half covers where it attaches to the wategate. This gives you minimum preload on the arm, but it sounds like you've pretty much done that anyway 😉

If you're saying with the arm on the actuator set at its minimum (usually half a hole on the arm) and you're holding 10psi, then no, a boost controller won't lower the peak boost. You'll need a weaker spring in the actuator but these being sealed units you won't be able to change it. I've seen...