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Same realy effort realy fitting either phase 1 or 2 most often you find the Cups for sale.
Phase 1's would be my choice as theres no UCH or electric throttle body plus on your car you don't need to chnage the throttle pedal as the phae 1's use the manaul one like you do a phase 2 conversion of...
£2.5k will buy you a 170hp car though seems a waste IMO get a C20LET (or if you want find a Z20Let (electric thottle body) fitted costs will be more but 200hp stock.
5-40 or 10-40 fine in the 172 5-40 protects down to minus 25 rarther than -20 that the 10-40 does and it also portects more when cold but the difference isn't noticibale its 10 years down the line you'd see the difference maybe.
111mph on the speedo not 111mph in real life.
Different 1.2 go to different top speeds depends on how big the hill is how long you've kept your foot down for.
Spax are better than Gaz but there still rubish I had t in my car its complete junk rear dampers failed all the time. I had 6 sets in as many months till I sold it on I think.
Gaz and Spax stuff not cheap but its not any good either.
Don't even bother loking at Gaz stuff for Clios its all useless.
High milage yep its worth changing them but not for gaz even worn out stuff better spend some money on say Avo's etc.
Williams Clio are trying to get a group buy going for there coilovers £330 or so I think if they get enough...
Take the rear wheel of see if the dampers covered in oil if it is then its gone.
If your cars under warently its done for free common failure on the 182's
Take the damper off if you want one two bolts one holding it to the suspension arm under the car (17mm bolt 110Nm tigthened from...
OK basically no need to asjust toe in etc.
The Preterd your looking at the front wheels straight on there like this
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Thats 0 degrees camber ie the wheels are at 90 degrees to the ground
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Thats say - 25 degress camber but since most cars are negative people never...
Its a pain to change the gaiter. If the gaiter is damaged and your selling up superglue can fix and get the stuff injected in. Otherwsie a new driveshafts so much easier to do.
£20 for a new gaiter with grease and clips.
Forget repairing the dampers if thats the problem new ones are ££50 and idealy you should replace both sides as once.
Stupid forum made me post it three time if a page doens't load I just hit refresh and it sends the post all again.
Anyone who fits them should be able to get a decinet enough setup.
Basically a touch of toe in then depending how you drive 1 to 1.5degress negative camber at the front.
In the same way that Liddle and Marks and Spensers both use meat in there food.
They use each other products as there good they use them in different ways.
Drop me a message if you want me to do it I'm just south of Chester.
Most important rule (which I forget) is to ensure bulb is cold before you remove it). Otherwise it hurts a lot.
Rear strut brace has no advantage so unless you want it for looks get rid of it.
Cup splitter need to drill holes in the bumper put it up and you'll see where the holes need to be.
I'd personally sell it there worth a fortune.
The holes arn't on the suspension turrets you have to drill...
If the cambelt fails the valves hit the pistons and damage isn't worth fixing, the best value is to buy and fit a whole new engine.
Yep it sort of dies the engine powe ryou hear a nice snap and ping before hand and wonder why the car makes funny noises when you try start it.
Not very often I think its been reset 20 times or so since I bough it new. Last time it reset itself as it had 10k on it.
I'm quite sad got a graph at work showing MPG for each reset etc.