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right, got cracking on it last night, basically re-routing the omex loom to where we need it and chopping the ph1 loom up (after all those hours sorting it out :mad:) also fit my standard injectors onto the jenvey fuel rail as i think they will be up to the job (not going for mega power after...

no it will be black after a very short period of time as said just change it anyway, for peace of mind

yes thats because on yours all the standard mk1 sensors are still in place and therefore giving the correct signals to the dash gauges and warning lights. sadly i have done an engine conversion so have no standard sensors in place, only the sensors from the 172 engine which i dont think are...

right so i either plumb in the mk1 sensors for water/oil etc to work the mk1 clocks, or use aftermarket stuff?

i know a few are, so.... what dials/gauges can it run on the standard mk1 clocks? ie tacho, oil temp, water temp etc if it can't run any, maybe its a good excuse to go for an aftermarket dash? :cool: like so http://www.race-technology.com/dash2_2_31.html or can the omex not run all of...

i will :evil: bens rad is too thick (i tried it to see if it would fit) it would mean cutting the front x-member to accomodate it, if i can get away with a standard rad from another model i would prefer to do that

right, got some pics (although not very good ones) for you to have a peek at..... my journey started last monday night, when i collected a mates engine crane and put it in the back of the 106, then set off on the M62 heading for ben_p's house. Not long into the journey west yorkshire's...

i have just spliced into a signal wire coming off the coilpack, stripped wire back and soldered my wire running to rev counter on to that yes the engine is from a 172

yeh tbf i cant bling it up too much, just wouldnt be in keeping with the 'well used' look it rocks at the minute panel damage ftw :approve:

aarrgghh so many good points! i may have to hit a compromise, engine stays in, fit cams while its in and leave the engine bay tarting up until the winter (i'm gonna need something to occupy my time lol) so now theres an option 3 lol :o

i've got one of these rigged up, takes a pulse from one coil wire http://www.otto-racing.co.uk/digital_tacho.htm just bear in mind that i have to change the setting to '2 cylinders' so that it reads correctly (as it is only taking a reading from the pulse signals for 2 of the spark plugs, if...

jack the car up put a breaker bar or long lever on top of the wishbone right near the ball joint, then find something to lever against (watch you dont find something breakable or easily damaged) and press downwards if its knackered you will be able to push it down and see the movement in the...

right i am in two minds here, i'm open to anyone's opinion of what they think would be best option 1 - leave the engine in, fit ITB's, omex, and new coolant hoses, then either get a base map for the omex to suit the standard engine, or go get it mapped at RStuning (around £300) option 2 -...

it may well be mate, you'll be the first to know when i start removing stuff :)

shipping company can't insure an imaginary object? please note i retract this comment if it turns out he does own it! rofflecopter

funnily ive just been speaking to a rig up bad boy, now looking at fitting cams ourselves (we did the cambelt on this one the first time round and its been fine, just a bit more involved fitting the cams) i'm always in a rush to get things finished :o i think it's because the whole thing has...

god knows when its going to be back on the road :( the list of things to do (after having an empty list about a month ago might i add) - remove standard inlet, plenum, fuel rail, rad, coolant hoses, loom, ecu etc etc - fit new sfs hoses - fit new rad, or if the one i have doesnt fit, find...

i have a twin air horn like this http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1413/TWIN-AIR-HORN/product_info.html nice and loud :approve:

well phase 2 has begun! already! roffle i think space is about to get even tighter in my engine bay :evil: i have a feeling i might just wish i had done this in the first place, all those hours of splicing/soldering the looms together........wasted :dead: live and learn eh :rolleyes:

belter, cheers middo if it comes out dirty i'll just buy a new one :D

anyone tried cleaning one of these up? mine is looking a bit grubby did i read somewhere about putting it in the dishwasher?

looks like a very neat job :approve:

im hoping diagnostics will point me in the right direction when you re-wired yours, did you just chop wires near the ecu then route them to wherever they go, or did you remove the connections out of the ecu plug and then refit them? don't suppose you could send me that wiring pdf jord? :)

i dont think its just the exhaust they are increasing it for it's more likely to be an 'admin' fee for changing whats on your policy etc

well this is exactly what mine is doing i will check the emulator output again and see if there is anything there, but im 99% sure there wasnt

do you know if the fuel pump will still prime even if the immobiliser is still 'armed' ive asked this in the electronic section but not had a reply as yet my other option is to try my ecu on someone elses car, anyone up for that?

what was your emulator outputting on cranking foxy? i tested that last night with the ecu open like yourself and im pretty sure mine didnt output anything at all?!?!? :S

no :o don't suppose you have it?

on a 172/182 if the immobiliser is armed does it let the fuel pump prime on ignition?

right, on to the next chapter :rolleyes: basically the ecu is not sending the earth signal to the fuel pump relay on cranking, after talking to matteh we think it might be: a) ecu not getting crank signal b) emulator not sending out immo signal to ecu c) the ecu isn't getting another...