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Hacksaw to cut the pipe.
You#'ve two options then either fit it and get the new one welded on or get a cover and use that to bridge the distance between the two systems.
You need to get the car to a dealership or garage with the correct computer who cna annaoys see what fault code you have its most likly a sensor problem there 5 one on each wheel and there on by the handbrake. With your car it most likly the handbrae one (acceleronometer most likly).
Why not use the RWD alpine 2.5 liter turbo engine (used on some lagnas with 4x4) Matt sog tone for sale £1.5k for the engine box etc.
Still cheaper power can be got.
£300 or so cash to do the clutch use a proper Renault one.
Emmissions have to be as follows
http://www.bobmckay.co.uk/p_emissions.html
So its not if your allowed a decat ts just before 1st Aug 92 emmisons are allowed to be higher.
The V^ was to be a showcase more than a good car the V6 engine wouldn't have been used if they wanted an all out racer or best handling car ever the V6 was designed to just show how differerent Renault are.
Its said when VW heard Renault were doing a 3liter car they interpreted it to mean...
Renault could build one for pennies more than the normal car for you doing the job parts are much more expensive for starters lower CR block for them is free for you its £400 for pistons then you've got to fit them Renault cna do this when they build them.
Turbos, manifolds etc are all...
Get the insurnace to sell it back or give it to you with a smaller cash sum use the money to fix the car with second hand parts as this will be upping your bill as they have to use new ones. Then put the rest of the cash in the bank for when you see to make up for the fact it won't be worth as much.
MAP sensor or the throttle body is dirty
Does the temp gauge move up and down as well? If so temperatrue gauge.
Other than that sounds like you'v got a intake leak need to check the ehole engine see if you've got a gap forming somwhere in the intake manifold which means the engine has to rev...
Sounds like just the normal behavour no ABS will cause you to skid if your hard on it.
Get the calieprs etc checked though thats there sliding and bled brakes but since the problems not at high speed IMo its not an issue.
Won't give you acces as its members only.
Best doing a search but the faults most likly the TDC sensor or top dead center or crank position sensor (same thing just called different things by different people)
Unlikly to be plugs or coils on starup but throttle bodies can get dirtied up so...
Gen? I assume you man best
Well best is a metal bar of decient thickness or a sqare section weledd/bolts with some big bolts right over the strut top but noone would do that.
Depends what back box you've got a cheap universal one just hacksaw your old one off as far back and get a garage to weld it on.
A proper one for a CLio etc would have some pipe on it so you'd have a sleave made up so the two bits of pipe don't leak etc.
An expensive exhaust would come...
Theres 3 60A fues for the A/C under the bonnet.
Check th blower units fan is working and the resister pack thingie under the scuttle panel. (do a search pics were shown only a few days ago).
I guess that wheel HP if so its a bit low 95.3 is 127.8hp most 172 are about 140hp or so.
It means maximum hp is at 6441rpm
Torque from a 172 is offcialy 200NM at the fly so thata again a bit low I'd say you'd expect 160Nm at the wheels.
Run some big daimeter pipe preferable with heat shielding over it from the fog light (take the fog light out) to the airbox intake.
Best for the Mk1 is the type the race cars use but that invoves removing the washer jet bottle and cutting the body a bit.
Yep you can it will spring out but you could get somone to hold the spring when you unod the last of the nut thread and its fine not ideal its a bit stupid all for the matter of £10 or so for a compressor kit and a bit of time to use it.