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Its just Renaults. Could try the engine or gearbox mounts, otherwise start looking at the suspension. I had a knocking for at least a year and dismantled everything and no luck. Until I replaced the top engine mount even though it was in good nick, it was the only thing I hadnt replaced. that...

Yeah theres a Mr Clutch in Southend as well, I think all up its about £700 for fitting a recon box?

Drop it 35mm, the Willy is already 5mm lower than a 16v. Id say supercharge it if you can without losing your power steering. Leave the body alone I reckon...

Errr, youll probably get the opposite of what you want? I started with the torsion bar adjusted and lowered springs on the front and it handled lovely, then went for the Koni shocks later - gave a harsher ride. But much better handling though. If you want an armchair ride then keep your...

Yeah thats pretty much it, on an injection car it doesnt need an extra pump, it just taps in on the regulated fuel line. I find that hitting the gas in first gear is pretty pointless, putting 200bhp through the front wheels is just gonna smoke the tyres or the clutch - both expensive habits...

Ive never had any real problems with my Super 4s, they seem to do the job, no misfires etc even when running nitrous at 7000 rpm. What can I say, a plugs a plug it either works or it doesnt.

Magnex cat back system and decat pipe. Top quality, nice rumble but not too loud, with a bit of a clean up it would be as good now as it was the day I fitted it. Gives a bit more power once youve done a few other mods.

Luke you coming to the rolling road day seeing as its just round the corner from you?

Get Ferodo DS2000 or Mintex.

Wongy knows all the stuff about Ibiza splitters. i think you just need to cut notches out of the corners to get the bend right.

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Get a Williams clutch, it fits straight in and hardly any extra cost when most of the dosh is going on labour. Its just a bit tougher and the last thing you wanna do is have to replace a knackered clutch again when you could have put a better one in.

On my 16v it made a difference and that had a pretty good chassis already although it does flex. Only problem is that with the front end stiff as a shopping trolley now the roof takes the flex instead! Still a strut brace is a bloody good place for leaning on when youre working on a hot engine.

Sorry the last sentence I meant that a 4-1 would be a bad move, not a 4-2-1. Unless youre racing the car full time. And by that I dont mean the traffic lights grand prix.

If my theory is correct, a 4-1 manifold may give you ultimately more top end power but at the expense of mid range. I dont know about the non-16v Clios but I know damn sure that the last thing a 1.8 16v needs is to rob the little mid range it does have. Top end its got plenty of already...

My understanding is that a turbo can be accounted for by altering the apparent capacity of each cylinder. The higher the boost pressure the greater the effective size of the cylinder.

Try Powerflow, they can make you a letterbox exhaust if you want one.

Its an Esquiss Alien/Joker. Prima have got most of the bodykits that are available for Clios. Have a look at their website, but just dont expect delivery from them before the autumn!

Glad you like it - but the bottles, fogger and solenoids arent cheap if theyre good quality.

Youre right Lofty, the one you can see at the front of the arch is the auxiliary belt which spins the alternator although it does run off the bottom pulley on the cambelt. But the cambelt is totally covered up.

My 93 Clio has an ET of 36, I think all Clios are 36mm but dont take that as gospel. 35 or 37 doesnt really matter. A 37 mm offset will bring the wheels in by 1mm, 35mm will push them out by 1mm. Its not worth worrying about unless youve got no room at all. The 7.5 width is more relevant really.

How did you go about shortening your track rod ends? I need to reduce the lock slightly on mine.

Best bet is to jack up the front and take the wheels off and then youll see exactly where theyre rubbing. Ive had to leave all my sh*tguards off and angle-grind a bit of the metal out of the inner arch, but on 17s you probably wont have to be as drastic. The top sh*tguards can come out safely...

De lock the whole lot including the boot. At the end of the day, if you absolutely have to then either break the window and get another one from a scrappy or just remove the rear window. It can be done from the outside...

38 mm offset on 215/35/18 Toyos.

Its not easy and the worst of it is that no-one realises how difficult it is to do on a Clio, you can easily take up a day or two working on those bloody door pins! Everyone thinks its a 5 minute pocket-money mod! Glad you got it done in the end though, congratulations

Im pretty sure the maxi clio took its air down a sealed induction tract from the back edge (n/s) of the bonnet up above the coolant tank. This led to an airbox, not an induction kit. The front n/s vents must have been for something else - maybe to give a less restricted air intake for venting...

An RT can go way lower than a 16v because its so high off the ground to start off with. Forget random numbers and look at your car - for best looks and handling you want it so the tops of the tyres are just level or slightly inside the top of the arches. The Fast car thing is a bit out...mine...

Nice one Dave, I was just in Carno just now and Chris was saying youd rung up. Apparently he was gutted that had to give you the discount cos you didnt mention it until the end of the call!

BTW because the PBV is adjustable its actually useful once you go further with engine mods. A fixed pressure regulator running a higher pressure is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard on an factory ECU controlled car.