Search results

Sounds like the slider are stuck. Thee two bolts holding the calipers to that bracket thingie slider in and out on two pin likt things there covered by bits of rubber there the bits you stick the spanners on to undo the caliper. If they don't slider then you get this problem. It can be a pain...

Are they up[rated pads as uprated pads queeek. Some replacment pads arn't a good fitment though so they can rattle about. When you take the caliper off see if the pads can rattle about as this will be the problem. One way of stopping them or limiting the noise is to put that brakes grease on...

Your right, I was going to edit my early post but for 90% of people the H and R are idea. If you have the extra money and want the best leda or blistein are better and give you more adjustment option but its a lot of extra money which most people won't use.

Konis are a good road shock. Wherather there worth the extra difficult to know. Blistein do a B4 replacment set which are cheap.

You could tell what tyre of arm it was before you started try one which is so rusted you don't know what type it is. Best idea IMO is to duct tape the whole thing all the threads etc then paint it in underseal etc.

Congratulation rust and stuck parts are a problem with cars. Wait till you get a realy old car and try and do this.

H and R ever time.

With coilovers you can adjust the ride height but the best thing is to have it profeshionally set up by Yozzasport or Mark fish etc they will adjust the camber height etc to what they thing is the best setup for what you use the car ie track, fast road, hill climb, etc. Personaly I'd just go...

It should be clear its brown its it hasn't been chnaged for ages.

The serv light indicates a fault not a service. The oil warning light is telling you it needs topping up with oit 5-40 semi syntheic is what you want only a few quid from Halfords etc.

We need the power as well it depends how the engine has been built if the turbos speced etc so power drops at 7k then you'r unlikly to get to 160 or whatever as power will have droped off and you'd need longer gearing from either different ratios or final ratio or bigger wheels.

80mph is about 4k or so. SO 7.2k is about 142 All the Mk2 phase 2 except for the 182 have the same ratios

The old spec was every 12k or 1 year.

I'd personaly chnage the oil now only takes 10 minutes of you take your time and it is helpful.

There wrong its 12k or 2 years as per here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107873

The parts you need Condensor. The pump and get it fitted plus new AUX belt. Wiring into the ecu and Renault programming the ECU unless you want to bodge it. New dahboard panel Piping. Filling with gas Parts cost there about £1k I'd think.

Forget it its to much effort and cost in parts.

If after the tracking been done the wheel isn't stright then they havn't done the tracking right. The best place to do a proper job is a back street garage from my experiance.

Stave on here has his done looks a good job from what I saw very impressive. I think Ktec said there went to 160 or something the gearbox and engine power band limiting factor as people have hit the limiter on stock cars before now.

Have a look here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107873

Its not good the shock loading to the engine isn't good but the rpm themselves arn't realy an issue remaps take the car to 7.5~8k usually.

Just drill iot out or heat the end up massivly with a good blow gun. Don't go trying to take the rack to pieces.

Don't bother with just springs get a full kit apex kits are great value. Stock shocks can die in 50k on normal springs so on modified springs say 25k (assuming thats from new)

As gaz said the only decient cable is the Renault official one.

The Cup has a different alternator to stanard 172's so possible the wrong one or the wrong belt has been used.

Have a read here Clio Mk2 alarms http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=108782

I've sold my RS but when i ownered it I drove it quite hard but it was a second cra so was only drivng to track days so no point driving it hard plus it attracted a lot of attention the way it was setup. My other Clio I drive hard all the time.

You need to get the Renault computer plugged in it might be a faulty sensor.

Cams make for decient gains on the F7R engine talk to BenR on here about them as his company makes them in various specs. Throttle bodies are great and a stunning sound but expensive.

Depends cheap cams say £200 for regrinds. £500 for new dampers and springs £400 for fitment of cams £350 for a remap £200 for a back box exhaust maybe £150 for a intake But thats not the best use might as well stay with stock cams get a full exhaust (£400) manifold (£180) work and a Viper...