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Yep lift one which is and one which isn't and you can instantly tell. Jon is right phase 1 wiring is so much better no silly big computers. IF I do a transplant it will be a phase 1 into phase 2 sheel as I prefere phase 2 looks plus the phase 2 has the small strenghting on the shell.

Only some Mk1's have ali bonnets. They are the best realy IMo drive by cabwl throtlte for instant reponse and lots of camber.

Depends on the springs and setup. But the more negative the better is grips in the bends the front want to overtake the back though sometimes you need some more rear end grip. However thats right beyond the limit on track.

Stock cars run 0.45 degres camber see here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=133900 Don't run more than about 1.5 degress as your driveshafts will knock like ad as there to far inwards although you can run upto about 2.4 degres but the bearing will wine all the time and die very...

Nope doens't matter who its with so long as it VAT they use Renault original parts and stanmp the book saying they have done the service as per Renault insuructions. The only possible issue is if the engine blows up and Renault find out its becase somehting which is cheacked in the service...

The 172 unrated dogdons fit. Stock are fine though if you want better best would be buy some old ones and have some solid bushes made up.

You'll have the 239mm disks so I'd just use Ferrodo pads there about £15 from Halfords easy to fit.

propbably not but there be loads odf 182 for sale full Renault history will help to see it if your getting the labout for almost free though saving say £100 its worth it then leasy you can reduce your car by £100 at say 30k when you seell it and be quids in.

I'd have it done at Renault but supply the oil if you want anything special. You don't need Renault to do it you just need a VAT regsitered garage to do it and stamp the book but personally when I buy a car I like to see Renault stamps in the book.

Yep thats all you have to do. But all is a big word you need to get the ABs system to work the same. You can get adapter plates made up which scre into the hub then give you the 5 holes etc that you need.

You only need the looms and dash for simplicity you cna make the stock ECU run the engine with a loom made to fit. Same for the suspension and box the car won't ride right but it cn be done. Its geeting less and less cost efficitn now you can pick 172's up for next to nothing. I've seen them...

Sounds like ths shocks are worn. Mine are the same at the moment. Check the ball joints etc though for movement etc.

Undo the bolt whch hold it tight and make the location of where it is ie how far down the stearing arm it is then count the number of tunrs to make it off and put the old one back on with the same number of tuns checking it matches up to the same place the old one did.

Personally I'd not spend it on the car and save for a house/holiday/track days. If you do want to spend on the car then Leda or H and R coilover and then some 4 pot brakes and the rest on track days learning how to use them all.

I wonder what the reseve is I don't see it being worth more than £4k at best a new chassic is possible the only way to garantee its Ok then again you'd need a better look the subframe is quick a serious bit of kit maybe its just that which has taken the abuse.

Standard here as well, it maybe quicker to shift but you'll only rust the usless syncros but I alwasy ended up being as quick as if it didn't have it to protect the box.

The 172/182 and 1.2 shells are exactly the same shalls except for the sunroofs. You'd need the gearbox as well as engine plus you need the radioatr realy and to make it simple swop the sholw looms and closk for the 172 ones then whiclst you can modify the 1.2 shafts to fit why bother might as...

Yeloows are very rare I think 200 were made in the 172's Red was a bit more comon but still very rare.

Mine are now on there 4th or 5th set I think. Didn't know they werea british compnay they do seem to be trying and getting better though.

I do't like Spax kits though after my experinaces with them but to be faire they did seem keen to help all the time and the warently decinet.

Its there common type D coolent I forget the number they sell it in 1 and 5 liter containers though.

There only one true colour IMO and thats gold with the silver rim they look stunning if done right.

There are some 5 door RS engined cars though.

You can just get some 58mm hubs its not difficult to chnage them plus the 58mm hubs usually have a wider selection of parts.

52mm is very common on the 1.2's. the early Mk2 phase 2 1.2's have 52mm hubs. 58mm are a comon size on the Mk2 phase 2 all other cars except some 1.2 16V early and other 1.2's. 60mm hubs are only used on the Cup packed 182.s

A 172 engine is the best tansplant after all a 1.6 16 only make say 120hp with an exhaust etc not much more than a chipped dci80. Matt sells all the bits from a 172 for £1.5k+ vat thats engine, gearbox, brakes, driveshafts dials etc.

You can use 10-40 so long as the outside temperature doens't drop below -20 degrees you can use 15 weight of so long as temperatures don't get below -15 degress. 10-40 is a good weight to use though for most people.

Yep its the bit which attaches the hub to the suspension arm.

I love the Continentail premium contact but everyone different plus there in 15's. What about the Eagle F1's or GSD3's?

Sounds like the starters centrafugal thingie is on the blink. On most cars I'd say hit it with a hammer but its not easy to get to on a Clio so a new one is your best bet.