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Any none RS clio tow bar wil fit its just the legality as I wrote above which means you cannot tow.
You cna get one for the 182 custom made but again legality.
Definatly bleed the brakes when you change the pads regadless of the pads you use, and stick some decinet fluid in there even more important if you use DS2500 etc.
DS2500 are a very good compromise though DS300's will damage the alloys and paint.
Cup brakes are the same as the rest of the range. The 182 has different pads with chamfers on them but the 172 pad is now discontinued and the 182 is the replacment pad.
Unless you've had trouble I'd stay with stock DS2500s are a popular good value upgrade just make sure you have the brakes...
It on the driver side of the engine on the end under a cover.
Its not realy visibale unless you remove the cover.
The belt whoch is visiable is the AUX belt and power the alternator etc.
Depends on a Cup its easy on a car with air con its more difficiult then it depends hwo you do it the Renault manuals says remove the bumper and headlight but it can be done without doing this quicker.
Pm me your email address I'll send you the 172 manul tells you how to do this sort of stuff.
Ratios are massive to give you an idea
5 mph per thousand rpm in first, So say 35mph assuming 7k redline
10 mph per thousand rpm in first, So say 70mph assuming 7k redline
15 mph per thousand rpm in first, So say 105mph assuming 7k redline
20 mph per thousand rpm in first, So say 140mph...
You can just swop the engines the clucthes and gearboxes match up. if you use the Williams box the shafts match up as well.
You can have the 1.8 ecu remapped if you want or buy a cheap replacment ECU map.
Euro car parts etc sell them.
Powerflex etc sell stiffer ones but due to the problems with these sometimes I'd stay with the standard Renault ones there not much.
Leda are superb from the reviews I'd heavy but fitment isn't that good then again none are.
Avo are in a different legue price wise to Leda.
Leda are cheapest on a group buy but the facotry is probably your best bet otherwise.
Chnage the bottom ball joint as well they can sometimes wear heavily and the difference is noticable. Also I'd chnage all the rubber on the anti roll bars etc.
Easy to chnage the struts though only 3 bolts to undo 6 if you include swopping the bottom ball joints assuming there not much rust.
I've got some bolts on mine there the Eisbech ones 9weel there amrketed under there name they don't actualy make them)
Anyway they advertise them as giving 1.75 degree different but there more like 2~2.1 difference I've run them on the maximum and there unuasable the driveshafts knock i need...
You can get wrench for less than £70 I think I paid £40 or so for mine and its a decient one.
280NM is a lot most wrechcn won't go that high I'd just use a breakers bar when you use a proper toriqque bar you'll relaise how tight 200Nm is so an idea what 280 should be. Its not diffuclt to get...
The hubs are the wrong size.
If you put a 172 engine in you'l also need the 172 hubs shafts brakes etc (for simplicatity) so then you'll have the right hubs.
This post listing all this stuff
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1308032#post1308032
Is stickied at the top of the tunning and mehanical forum. No one ever reads it though.