Search results

There worth it as there the same sort of price as normal ones and if your using harder pads then the wear markers are handy.

A 1.4 16V with an exhaust didn't gain more ant about 1.5 car lenghs so a 1.2 should be be much to worry about. Regards track days come to Oulton on the 9th for a play. Or ask people who attended the last airfield day. Will be fu anway as mu shocks are worn (I'm lining the excuses up...

172 kit won't fit even if it did it wouldbe be the best. Stock shocks won't be to expensive. I'd go for Fk's I'm in the same situation at the moent as all my shocks are going not sure what to go for as I need to save money and stock setups not bad.

Have a read here Servicing rules/time/whats done etc (172/182) http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=107873

Rs-1 is a superb car better in many ways than the phase 2

Either. I'd go for super dot 4 personally.

Not much you can do it on the Cup easily.

It should be covered as although there wear and tear items if they fail early one (upto say 80k IMO) then its a design failure I don't think Renault Uk could realy argue otherwise other manurfacturers shocks last much longer.

A Piper cam is a camshaft when you change the camshaft you might or should replace the cambelt since its off anyway.

To get 172 brakes to fit you need to make nw mounts up the hub mount bolt spacing is different. The 1.2 brakes I find are great then again my car does seem unusal compare to the rest of the 1.2's etc I've driven. There the same brakes as fitted to the Williams and 1.8 16V and the whole Mk2 2...

The info on how to fix it etc is here Common Clio problems http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=108607

SOund slike you might just need the fluid bleeding in which case might as well chnage the pads as well I had a similar problem with mine when I overheated and cracked the pads but that was track day driving.

You need the right tools it can be difficuly (space for a starter) loads of engines have been ruined when people (and garages) have done it on the cheap or set the cams out slightly and the performacne has taken a hit. Pm me your email addres and I'll send you the file on how to do it if you...

62NM for the front and 105NM for the rear ones.

I'm writing a guide at the moment but my boss wants me to do some real work for a chnage so its not going quick. 1) I'd say normal disk or Brembo ones (Brembo are the same price from Yozzasport plus they have wear markers which are handy) then DS2500 pads and make sure you use some decient...

But not to the 1/4 mile point bvy quite a fair bit which is interesting. It was my first and only time I did it though later on with a passenger etc i recon I coul dget a second off my 60 time easily without a apssenger. I've drag raced 1.4 16V Clios before now without loosing much.

I'm sure it can be done use the 182 hubs or 172 full fat with the sensors and make the car with ABS as such but don't plug it in just use it as an output sensor. Or find out what the output from the gearbox sensor is and wire it to a ABS wheel sensor. I'lk have a look tomorrow at the wiring...

I think the best combination is Cup brakes setup (ie no ABS) so no MOT trouble register it as a Cup Phase1 looms which are easir no UCH to deal with. 182 engine with phase 1 head. 182 gearbox (Ok slight issue here as there no abs but you could fix this by using a ABS looms to run the speedo...

You could bodge the struts by drilling the bottom hole 1mm over diameter and using a set of camber correction bolts.

Depends on the compnay one way round it is to get the looms engine etc from a Cup etc and get your car reregistered as a rebuilt Cup and you xcna insure it then as a normal Cup etc but has been a Catagory rebuild.

The engine would fit there the same engine realy. Just need the Mk1 throttle body. How about a rebuilt 172 Mk1 engine and have it fettled and tunned when its being rebuilt?

Quite a few quick cars (quicker than Cups) have been made without ABS without being crashed as much as the Cup has been.

Not a huge job extra realy when you think you've talking about swopping the engine gearbox suspension brakes radiaotor etc anyway.

Might as well swop the looms as well a f4R is say £500 then £300 for a box £150 for the radiator etc then you need the driveshafts and brakes and supension realy so that say £300 for an extra £400 you can have the whole loom for an extra £200 or so. The ECU's are the same so in theory the stock...

Your mates car sounds like he's bust the head a helicoil should be able to fix it. SOunds like the ehauxt mounting isn't working you need to get right under there and have a look the dogbone might also be at fault.

Ooops yep sorry mixing my codes up I meant 172 engine the F4R is the better idea. The F7R could be made to wrk though the easy way would be to swop the whole looms from a crashed Williams etc I'd think.

A remap is just a different set of engine maps for fueling etc the best mpas are ones made custom for your car not the superchip etc ones. Best idea to make th car quikcer is to get some modified parts ie cam manifold work exhaust indution kit head work etc then go for a custom remap where the...

This doesn't work either keeps saying the system file is not suitbale for running MS Dos or Microsoft windows please click close.

How much have you got to spend? Personanly I'd spend the the suspension and brakes first engine powr isn't very cost effective.

Please excuse me if I have the models/ colours/ MK's wrong, I'm not too clued up on Clios... but hey this might help: Jaakko - Blue MK2 grrljo - Red 16v Northrop - Red MK1 with stickers MrAtego - Blue MK2 Lunner - Black MK1 craig100 - MK1 Williams Russ - Golf MK2 Scottcup - MK1 white...