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prick of a job that looks very easy. You have to clamp the ARB down onto the arm which compresses the bush enough to be able to get the nuts onto the threaded section of the drop link. Lots easier with 2 people. Wouldn't fancy it without a ramp

pretty sure it needs a 5pk due to the way the belt runs from the crank pulley. You'd need to trim the lower plastic cover in order for a 6pk belt to not rub.

you dont get the kind of overlap you would with for instance 421's which is why the stock ECU can cope with idle control

just realised it's an F4R with valver aux setup, probably why it's a 5 rib belt

you have 2 issues. It's a 5 rib belt where it should be a 6 rib (not a serious problem) and the belt is mis-aligned on the PAS pump by 1 rib need a new belt on that now as the way it is will be cutting through the belt.

they do when they're done right, mines only ever had a very rough cold start setup, and it's fine after about 3 seconds. The one i mentioned in an earlier post was a mess though, 10 minutes of spluttery nonsense and doing NOTHING when you press the throttle

f**king LOL!!!!!!

you have weak wrists ;) do them up TIGHT

i wouldn't change back, no way. There's no downside to the 182 manifold, just torque improvement at lower revs

exactly, peak figures are way over blown, and too many conversions see no gains until over 5k. Drove a pretty poor one recently, felt slower than standard until right up the top of the revs

my mk1 gained 26bhp at 3k when i went from standard inlet to ITB's ;) only made about 8bhp peak though (once i stopped the filters getting sucked in), but it's a different car

either side of the small bush.

so utterly different it's pointless comparing. massively under tuned engine in the ford to start with (assuming zetec) whereas the F4R is quite highly tuned from the word go

ITB's are awesome. Anyone who says otherwise needs to grow a pair. Same goes for anyone who says they can't be used daily. I've done it for the last 16 months

nah it's just the dephaser pulleys are REALLY s**t on the K4M. Not changing the oil often enough will contribute too

never ever ever ever use those cheap nasty kits. Genuine, or the OE ones from another manufacturer that I sell ONLY

used a genuine water pump? seen some non genuine ones have the impellar foul on the inside of the block

as above, it's only the 1.2 16v thats an issue

If it's gone together correctly then you're fine. the spacers behind the idlers are different depths. The one on the block is a bit bigger than the one on the head. If thats what you've done, then you're flying

I'm pretty sure they've changed something tbh. I dont remember the springs being like that before and I've fitted a fair number. Will ask the question with the supplier

Apex springs are hideous with standard shocks. I think they'd be better if you used uprated shocks with them, but there's really not a lot of point I'll sell Eiback, PI, or Spax happily but not apex

receipts, or stamps in the service history

a well serviced 120k engine will be better than an abused 50k engine. Most of the broken engines I see have been rebuilt badly at some point. Usually the oil pickup is full of silicon and it's blocked the pump. If you do want a good strong engine, build another one in preparation for the high...

this was going a bit far though :p

have you fitted the original rubber on the top of that spring? can't see it in the picture. that spring doesn't look quite right, but a lot of the kits that mount like this do similar

based on what? I've been at ktec when a car came in with an rstuner map on it already, did a power run, and all commented how impressive it was. Then Andy and Mike made some changes, did a few runs and made 6bhp more

it's making more now ;)

no they're not, you dont get TUV by being s**t

I supply 35mm or 55mm springs from Pi. 35mm are lovely on the DCI

dont mean to be a smart arse, but did you not test drive this thing before you bought it?