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the temperature outside just dropped. You need a new thermostat. I'll bet it's on the original one

mines a cat c. said it before, say it again, it's a good way to get a car for less initial expenditure, but then fixing stuff doesn't faze me in the slightest

Laine is refering to the Megane F7R which has 2 different manifolds available. The Williams F7R has only one, which needs material removing so it will fit

the chadil manifold needs quite a lot of modification to stop it fouling on various parts. dont be afraid to cut bits of it away, there's a lot of excess material on it

sigh Clios are fairly unusual as far as N/A goes in that they do like a quite large exhaust. Not over the top, but 2.5 inch is worthwhile for best power. You obviously have a potential noise issue with this though so striking a balance is important.

most likely a non-resistor plug was used

If it's been done recently then i'd take an educated guess that they've replaced the dephaser seal for a normal camshaft seal. That's caused oil starvation in the dephaser so damaged it and now it's leaking

my old trade policy went down by over £200 for the renewal, which i didn't go with

only 3 things wrong with EBC pads E B C

it's cold, the battery puts a lot of effort in to start the car and needs to be recharged, so the alternator is working harder for a short time. If the aux belt tensioner isn't tightening the belt enough it'll slip until it warms/dries/load is reduced

if someone who knows what one sounds like listens they will know in seconds without taking it apart

would depend what casting they were started on to some extent

the dephaser probably wasn't cleaned out when the change was done. You're lucky you have a cup though, lots easier to sort out

sounds like your timing is quite a long way out tbh. As it's changed how it runs since it was done, it may even have slipped so i'd be nervous the pulleys have been torqued properly

that's from Cheltenham. Used to see it about a fair bit

RROD fixed. cocktail sticks in the fans to overheat it FTW

I just red ringed there are going to be f**king murders

have you looked at them?

They've always been a minor issue, but people are neglecting servicing more recently. I do think it's an over-blown thing currently though.

hub puller if it's really stuck like this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-13916-UNIVERSAL-HUB-PULLER-100MM-115MM-/190452789533?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c57def11d a few blows with a mallet should get it moving though

you see, this is why signatures should be allowed!!!!!! best sig quote EVER!!

the big bolts from caliper to hub are 100Nm

sounds like it's an aux belt failure and it's caused the crank pulley to slip. You will have at least 12 bent valves, if not all 16. Rebuildable in a lot of cases, but will need a bore scope sticking down the plug holes to see if there's terminal piston damage first really

Si, just saw this and remembered i hadn't replied. oops, sorry Shouldn't have a throttle cable at all on a mk2, but you said it was a '98 in your message so are you sure it's not a mk1? either way the speedo drive is in the same place as a 172, whether it's a cable or an electronic sensor

different hub/strut bolt centers

I normally do it 3 ways to make sure. Long screwdriver in plughole 1, line up the flywheel mark, and make sure the pin is in

will be down to some clever soul jetwashing the engine. Yes seen it plenty of times, and it's normally a quite good source of a misfire

The trouble with powerstation dyno days is they let people sit on the cars to hold them in the rollers. This effects the losses as much as it effects the traction. If the people sat on the car, jump right off while the run-down is being done, the losses will be garbage

he got 428s. Should have had 421s IMO, but there you go your alternator bracket is bolted to the wrong side of that part of the block, that's why it looks to be too far over