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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEILSEN-TOOLS-5pc-LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT-REMOVERS-/300431344962?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item45f31a8542
these work on nuts with the spinning outer ring. I did a nissan pickup truck 2 weeks ago. Hammer on, impact gun off, Had all 4 done in under 10 minutes
if you're not in the motor trade, you'll be breaching terms of the policy. I think you have to sell something like 2 a month minimum (depends on insurance company) to be a part time trader. I have a mechanics policy so dont need to buy and sell, but do have to provide invoices of recent business...
just buy one and make sure it's cheap enough to cover the cost of the work. I'd personally do the belt on anything that i bought that i havn't known for a long time. Seen enough 1.2s with belts cocked up, let alone 172/182s. Independant dealers tend to use the cheapest possible option and...
did they do any work to it, or just the MOT? the servo pipe is quite far away from the exhaust manifold, or any other heat source. I would say that it's not a very hard fix
the nut being on is holding the spring in compression. If you remove it, the spring will go ping and extend to full length. Makes less difference on coilovers, but still shouldn't do it.
a drift, as in something you hit with a hammer, like a blunt chisel or similar
it's harder and more complicated on a mk3 than a mk2. Seen a lot of mk2 and mk3's done wrong though (mostly with regard to the tensioner). Worth going to someone who's done a lot of them. I was doing 2-3 a week at one point.
Locking tools are a lot simpler than F4, but still need to be used right
look at the bottle. If it says ACEA A3/B3, it's perfectly good to use. They wont make their own oil, most likely it's Comma in a unipart bottle, and guess who makes Halfords oil ;)