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totally agree. I hate engine swaps, so much easier and nicer to rebuild a head and you know the internals are decent after

i'd have a look at that, even if you spend a grand on fixing it up you've got a cheap 182

use NGK BCPR7ES, cheap reliable and they work totally perfectly

yes it does.

f**k you then, I was giving you advice. Lick my balls

that's why you fucked it, wrong socket. Think how i felt when i had an E14 headbolt shear off just above the washer/flange on a DCI a couple of weeks ago

I've removed rounded ones by hammering on an m6 nut and giving it a blob of weld.

piffle and nonsense. Pugs are piss easy to fix when they break, and they're cheaper. with regard to "specialists" I get asked why i work on s**t french cars that break for a living......erm maybe it's for job security ;)

wont give much of an increase really though. off the top of my head, you roughly need to double fuel pressure to gain 25% more flow

you'll be right on the edge of your limit with ITBs and 421s. I'd recommend using Megane 225 injectors, they're actually far bigger than you need but a much better spray pattern, much more controllable and with lots of headroom for furthur mods. I've fitted a couple of sets to NA setups and they...

BAD idea. It's a flexible joint for a reason. Never heard of dropping the subframe to get to the gasket before, it's not very pleasant, but it's definitely not as tight for space as that

it's not broken, it's spares ;)

Re: Missfire on cylinder 3, new plugs, leads, coil and injector is working. Plug is b did you do the compression test i suggested at the top of the thread?

My god there's some unadventurous people about. Sure, dont do it if you can't afford it, but if you can and you want to, then do it. No one NEEDS any of the mods they do to cars, but you all want them. K4M ITBs are possible like i said, but not an existing "kit". I found most of the parts...

http://www.fastchip.nl/Table/Technical/ F4R workshop manual (genuine) PDF to download on there. You need to register to get it, but it's very useful

ITBs are do-able, but fairly awkward. I really want to do an ITB K4M

6 sided socket only, never use a 12 point socket on anything that's suspect or rusted

probably just some wd40 equivalent

182 shafts fit and work perfectly on a 172 cup if you add the center bearing carrier

it's miles or age related. Change procedures state that changes should be done at shorter intervals with hard use. I dont like to go much past 4 years unless it's very low miles TBH

That's not what boost creep is. Boost creep is at the higher end of boost control, when the wastegate is not big enough to bypass enough exhaust gas away from the turbine. This causes the boost to go up even when the wategate is fully opened

your car's on low boost on just actuator pressure (6/7psi) IIRC Darren? That's all it's mapped for. Running 1 bar will make a MASSIVE difference

i wont get anything back. I've only even seen his car with the engine out and Mike building it up to put back in

save this image and zoom in on it to see the scale. the middle plot is MAP (it's absolute, 200kpa is 1 bar above atmospheric)

you're wrong, timing effects boost directly as it's effecting exhaust gasses

if it's throwing up lambda sensor fault, it could be wiring

that's what the GT28R is anyway

do you really want to open that can of worms?

GT28R (gt2560)

seen 280+ at 1 bar on clios. I posted the graphs and boost logs only a couple of weeks ago