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makes a difference yes, you're not always on full boost. it's a big generalisation, but longer is better for torque and midrange, and short is for top end high revs power
CV boot clips come off, Rear shocks leak, Springs break, engine mounts wear out faster than most cars. Aside from that and service items, it's normal FWD french hot hatch stuff like driveshafts, balljoints etc
just make sure you look at the belt run before taking the old one off and you'll be fine. Seen renault c**k that up and run the belt on the wrong side of the waterpump
oh complely different. i drive 1.2s and dci's all the time and they're "nice" but in no way sporty. saying that if you know how to hustle a 1.2 you can have a proper giggle. They're very tail happy if provoked with lift off
mistake 1 was going to powerflow. nothing but utter dogshit ever comes out of those places. Stainless steel that rusts, boxes made of fag paper thin metal. utter useless junk fitted mostly my muppets.
and breathe........
mistake 2 is thinking taking it to renault will do anything but give...
base models drive very different to sports. You probably need to get used to FWD handling too, they tend to understeer if you drive it like you would a RWD car.
i'd say do it, but I dont think you'll find anything available. I've had a search of all the cam manufacturers i can think of and there's nothing off the shelf. Worth giving Autosprint a call, they do some excellent re-grinds, but again i doubt they have anything already designed, and they'd...
correct me all he likes. doesn't mean i'm wrong. Saying it's nothing to do with fueling, but it's caused by an accel fuel delay......erm, that's fueling. There's no kick with properly mapped standalone, so that proves the claim that it's due to mechanical factors (engine peak VE) is not correct...
no, what you're talking about is the "5k kick"
the majority of what he wrote about that was nutsack.
this question was about how the components physically operate, which i just answered
that's the solenoid. That part allows oil pressure to the pulley which changes the position. When you switch off pressure drops, and springs inside the pulley move it back
you need to machine pistons or get forged with larger cutouts for 422s
421s are a good match for std CR anyway, seen some impressive results when paired with ITBs
Cat 421s work well. C&Bs seem to be performing well too. Neither will give clearance issues. Give 428s a miss if you're on standalone, they're very mild.
Wire in the VVT, no question. TBH it's only a switch, you should have an output for it. Switch on at 1600 rpm, and decide on the off revs...
speedo drive and final drive ratio are the only major differences. 182 box has a bolted in diff rather than circlip retained also, but that's a nice upgrade