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until about a year ago, no-one knew how to keep AC with ITBs at all. you wont find anyone has done what you're asking. AC fittings are a nightmare to get hold of

spark plugs should be done, stupidly long "official" interval on them

agreed, a few months back there was loads of cup around the 2800-3500 mark, and they suddenly all went up in asking price :S Cups are fun to drive, but i wouldn't own one. I'd want more for my money not less

no not all. some just get worn out.

excelllent. that was a weird one

100k+ 172s are faster. Fact

that's a very small change, I think (not being familiar with RStuner software) that the fluctuation your seeing here is the fly by wire controlling idle

you're right, oem is bosch. the numbers you're seeing are not healthy though :(

it'll be your circlip popped out. normally involves a new box to sort it properly as the groove for the circlip gets worn and it pops again. some people weld the clip in with decent results. Probably worth trying welding it and accept you need a new box if it goes again.

as Steve says, non gen sensors aren't reliable unless they're from oem supplier (NGK iirc) possible that the cat is blocked. remove it and have a look (piss easy on a 182)

the lambda voltage suggests a dead sensor. get that changed first

just squeeze it up a little in a vice

depends if you're likely to modify what you buy. If modifying is what you want to do, then stick with the clio. If you just want more power and a "better"/new car, get something else. For me, it's build it not buy it every time, so i start with a car i want to own in a modified guise. Not many...

I must have corrected this about 20 times and STILL it gets said

it's getting cheaper and cheaper. development takes time and costs money

you bought a trophy. how much extra was that over a cup, when you removed most of the unique bits. different strokes. People spend on what they want

aweful. nasty. bad

well money's more than the cost of the conversion, running costs need to be thought about. bang for buck it's got to be a supercharger, but ITBs with cams is a very strong option IMO as you can get standard economy out of it. with a blower i'd use it.

i've driven all the common options, and i change my mind what i want about 3 times a week

if you've done the pedal and the throttle body, it sounds like your ECU is faulty :(

if you dont run an airbox you can just bend the pipe very slightly so it goes between 2 trumpets, then fit a k-tec filter

any time :)

depends if you want AC and leather, or a bit newer with less "nice" bits. I prefer the ph1, I just couldn't live with the cup cloth seats

interesting points, fairly well balanced views, but a few things worth considering also..... ITBs can be tuned to give factory economy if done well, and NA is often easier to manage if you're doing track work. Turbos - again, all down to execution. Lag ridden setups are normally down to...

those socks are fitted pulled down the trumpets WAY too far, that alone will be strangling it, Get a filter from k-tec and you'll notice the difference straight away

Loved this when Sean had it. Quick one too!!

using the diagnostics software, should have live data oon RStuner??? once it's running and warm, as lambda is switched off on cold running cycle

i've been quite impressed with my mk1, lol. Managed to get everywhere i've asked it with minimal fuss, when several 4x4s were struggling (pile of cars in a ditch, with an x5 on the top anyone?)

they're closed, it's christmas. Send a PM, on here, someone will look at it for sure in the next couple of days

rather than just looking at the fault codes, have a look at the voltage from the lambda. It should cycle between 0 and 1v (normally 40mv to 980mv)